亚洲咖啡、茶与冰激凌 专业杂志 04

Trieste Coffee Seminar: Balancing the Global Coffee Market’s Supply with Increasing Demand Café Double Tall: Seattle Style in Shibuya iberry: Bringing the Local to the International A Conversation with Italian Master Barista Luigi Lupi bimonthly magazine • vol. 9 • march-april, 2009 coffee, tea & ice cream magazine www.coffeetandi.com A bi-monthly magazine serving the coffee society in Asia Managing Editor Sam Tanadej Kamonchan Art Director Kitti Amornpatanakul Blue Sky Books Team Potcharawan Sukmuen Prapaporn Rungkajonwong Rossarin Tupniyom Chavamon Boriboontanawat Dane Wetschler Zheng Xiaofang Publisher Blue Sky Books 65/6 Soi Chokchai Ruammit, Wipawadee Rangsit Road, Jatujak, Bangkok 10900, Thailand Tel : 662 691 5891 fax : 662 691 5892 Email : info@blueskybooks.net www.coffeetandi.com Subscription & Sales please contact : Rossarin Tupniyom ning@blueskybooks.net Mobile : 668 2486 3588 Online Subscription now available Please visit us @ www.coffeetandi.com The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher contents 6 8 10 16 22 26 32 34 36 38 40 42 48 52 59 60 EDITOR•TALK CT&I•sOCIETy COvER•sTORy A Conversation with Italian Master Barista Luigi Lupi spECIAL•REpORT Balancing the Global Coffee Market’s Supply with Increasing Demand INDy•vOICE Café Double Tall: Seattle Style in Shibuya NANATAssANA Bean Scene HOT•BEv Cinnamon Roasted Latte Cherry Berry Milk Shake Coconut-Kahlua Latte Rose Lemonade Soda Rum & Coconut Frappé Mango Smoothie Soda ICED•AID iberry: Bringing the Local to the International TEA•TIME Rose House CAFé•DEsIgN Sweet Maesalong = Coffee Paradise COFFEE•TECHNIquEs V60 Paper Filter Drip Coffee TRADE•sHOW•pREvIEW HOSFAIR Guangzhou SCAA Expo 2009 Thaifex – World of Food Asia VietHotel ‘09 TRADE•sHOW•TOuR 4th International TriestEspresso Expo FHC China 2008 Thai Coffee, Tea & Drinks 2009 7th Seoul International Café Show & Fancy Food Festival 2008 BARIsTA•CHALLENgE National Thailand Barista Championship 2009 Singapore National Barista Championship 2009 The 6th Korea Barista Championship The 3rd SCAE European Team Coffee Challenge 2008 Ultimate Barista Challenge China BARIsTAs•AROuND•THE•WORLD product•news Quality coffee for Barista & Reliability Conti a coffee espresso machine manufacturer at Your service, based on his Distribution Network 1, avenue Albert II - B.P.119 - MC 98007 MONACO Cedex - Tel.:(377) 93 10 43 43 - Fax : (377) 93 10 43 44 E-mail : export@conti-espresso.com Websites : www.conti-espresso.com www.conti-spareparts.com IMPROVEMENTS : EDITOR•TALK Sam Tanadej Kamonchan sam@blueskybooks.net I was first introduced to that small cup of coffee called ‘espresso’ in a French coffeehouse more than 20 years ago. A few years later, the sales manager of the coffee machine company I represented taught me how to pull espresso. From what I learned, making a cup of espresso coffee seemed very simple. I got excited and started thinking of mar- keting ideas, dreaming of how to sell this idea so that all restaurants in Thailand offered espresso like those in Europe. My opinions about espresso coffee dramatically evolved while I worked in Taipei. Spending my free time watching my friend make coffee, we talked about the theories and importance of each step in the technique. It brought me a new appreciation for coffee and inter- est in learning more. Later, I found that the way of making espresso coffee in Italy was standardized and adjusted slightly to fit the new, Seattle style. Although many aspects of this method are contested, Seattle-style espresso has become popular because each and every step can be rea- sonably explained. In addition, this style has been adopted as the stan- dard for judging performance at international barista competitions. In my most recent experience of going back to Italy, the origin of espresso coffee, I found most of the coffee bars I visited prepared coffee in a way that was far from the style for making espresso coffee in Seattle; but that doesn’t mean the Italian baristas are less experi- enced than others. On the contrary, several Italian baristas, such as Luigi Lupi, enjoy respect from many renowned baristas around the world. Our interview in this issue will reveal what is so unique about Italian baristas. 6 • CT&I•sOCIETy 3 6 52 8 • • 9 COvER•sTORy A Conversation with Italian Master Barista Luigi Lupi Last December, Italian Master Barista Luigi Lupi came to Thailand to instruct Thai baristas about latte art and Italian-style espresso at a seminar hosted by the Barista Association of Thailand. coffee t&i sat down with Mr. Lupi to ask about how Italian baristas, espresso, and coffeehouses compare with the rest of the world’s. With over thirty years of experience, Mr. Lupi shares his opinions and reveals what is so special about Italian- style coffee. coffee t&i: When did you start to be a barista? Luigi Lupi: I started to be a barista 30 years ago. I owned my first bar. In Italy, 80% of baristas are owners because big coffee chains don’t exist. There are many bars, but every bar is independently owned. ct&i: Where did you train to be a barista? Who was your teacher? LL: I learned about coffee from the Musetti family, but I learned about latte art from my friend in Verona about 20 years ago. We exchanged experience: I taught him how to bartend and he taught me about latte art. I went to a wine expo in Verona and saw that at seven in the morning his bar was crowded. I went inside and saw he was doing something special, so I introduced myself and then we started to teach each other. ct&i: What was the first latte design you learned? LL: A rosetta. It is easier than others. But you know, this name is from the USA. In Italian, rosetta means “a little rose.” A rose is a flower, but the design looks like a leaf. A rosetta latte is a leaf, not a flower. ct&i: So, that means this name is actually wrong. LL: Wrong. Yes. ct&i: It should be called “a leaf,” right? LL: Yes, a tropical leaf. ct&i: Do you know where this name came from? LL: Seattle. You can find Italian names everywhere for coffee, but they are wrong - the meanings are wrong. ct&i: Was this design popular in Italy at that time? LL: At the time, latte art was not that popular. I was for- tunate to have that friend in Verona to teach me. ct&i: When did you start to compete and teach inter- nationally? LL: I won my first competition at the Italian National Barista Championship (INBC) in 2002. I was just a normal barista in my little city when a member of the SCAE recommended I participate in the first INBC. Two weeks later I went to Oslo to compete at the WBC, but had no knowledge of the competition’s rules before go- ing. When the competition started, they told us we had to make four espressos, four cappuccinos, and four drinks without alcohol. I spent the first 30 minutes adjusting the grinder because I had never seen the grinder I was using before. ct&i: What place did you get? LL: 4th place. ct&i: What was your signature drink? LL: It had something to do with mint and almond syrup, but it was a little sweet because I didn’t know the signature drink was supposed to retain the coffee taste. In Italy, when we make coffee, sometimes we add other products – it doesn’t have to taste exactly like coffee. LL: In the USA, they use too much coffee. In Italy, we use 7.5 grams to make espresso. In America, they use twice as much; they use their fingers to push off the extra coffee. ct&i: In the USA, they have something called Specialty Coffee. Do they have this term in Italy? LL: No. American baristas have more theoretical knowl- edge about coffee. They know all about the beans, the taste. But the Italians have more coffee making experience; they pull more shots. ct&i: Are coffeehouses in Europe different than in America? LL: In Europe, you can see chains. Not in Italy, but in other European countries, you can see businesses copying the American style of large coffee chains. ct&i: Why not in Italy? LL: It is very difficult to find a company who wants to open a chain. Every barista wants to be the owner. Yes, there are a few chains, but very little in quantity. ct&i: What about the differences in baristas from different countries? LL: There is no such thing as the best barista. It does not exist. I am not a perfect Barista. For me, the Japanese baris- fee. You may be a good barista, but I would not know if you make a good cup of coffee. ct&i: What do you think about the fully automatic cof- fee machines? LL: I think it is a good idea for everywhere outside Italy because business is business. It is not so easy to find baristas like Italian baristas, baristas who make coffee all the time. Fully automatic coffee machines help com- panies who cannot hire experienced baristas. ct&i: Do you think fully automatic machines will re- place traditional machines one day? LL: No. Impossible. I am a typical, traditional barista who likes to work with a manual machine. As long as baristas own their own shops, they will chose to work with manual over automatic. ct&i: In America, they call that old school. What is your advice for someone who wants to be a barista? LL: My advice is to work hard and study. Baristas must have knowledge about how coffee is grown, about coffee machines, and about espresso. Practice all the time. The more you practice, the better you will master your craft. ct&i: Where have you been invited to teach? LL: I have been to Moscow, Israel, almost all of Europe, Chile, Guatemala, and Ec- uador. In Asia, I’ve been to Japan, Korea, Taiwan, and now, Thailand. ct&i: Who manages your bar when you travel? LL: Actually, I rent my coffee bar and am teaching at the Musetti coffee school now. ct&i: When was the first time you went to the USA? LL: My first time was in 2004. I went to Seattle for the SCAA because I was the trainer for Italian champion baristas coming to America to compete. ct&i: How do you think the espresso in Italy and Seattle is different? LL: The difference is in the blend and the roasting. We roast lighter compared to roasts in the USA. Espresso is a complex taste. The blends in America are with high acidity; American baristas look for the best 6 or 7 best arabicas in the world and then blend them. But this is not our Italian espresso culture. If you make espresso like this, it will have high acidity. But in Italy, we do not make it like this. ct&i: You need a good robusta in the blend. LL: Yes. In my personal opinion, a nice blend of coffee needs to have a little bit of good robusta. You know, you can buy robusta more expensively than several arabi- cas; it is not true that arabica is the angel and robusta is the devil. ct&i: How do American baristas prepare coffee drinks differently than they do in Italy? tas are the most precise, but too serious. American baristas, are the opposite: very friendly and welcoming, but messy. In Thailand, I see that baristas are something between the Japanese and Italian: consistent, but with a more Western mentality. Italian baristas are very sunny, friendly, always talking with customers, wearing a smile. Thai baristas are like this, but also have the precision of the Japanese. The baristas in Asia work with patience, but do not work with the Italian style. They waste coffee working with the doser – Seattle style. This is not how we do it in Italy. ct&i: How do prices differ at Italian coffee bars? LL: If you stand at a bar it is maybe twice as cheap than at a place where you sit down. Also, from 6 or 7 pm to midnight or 1 am, the prices go up. A customer can get coffee at a restaurant, but it is impossible to find coffee at restaurants after 10 pm because they all close. If you want coffee, you have to go to a bar. ct&i: What do you think of the WBC competition? LL: The WBC is very important for spreading espresso throughout the world, but it is my opinion that the rules are not right. It is a championship for baristas, not coffee. The judges measure the performance of the barista, not the cof- 10 • • 11 COvER•sTORy 12 • COvER•sTORy 14 • spECIAL•REpORT Trieste Coffee Seminar: Balancing the Global Coffee Market’s Supply with Increasing Demand Trieste: Coffee Capital of the World Trieste, Italy, known to coffee lovers as the Cof- fee Capital of the World, hosted its 4th edition of the TriestEspresso Expo, November 12-15, 2008. Trieste was once a key trading port in Italy for coffee and now is one of the main coffee roasting centers in Italy, not to mention the home of the famed international coffee company, illycaffè. With 54 coffee businesses, 700 cof- fee professionals, and 50 ways to order coffee, Trieste is home to a rich coffee history, a vibrant coffee culture, and a culture of high coffee consumption. The annual turnover generated by the coffee industry in Trieste is approximately 500 million Euros. In an effort to invite the rest of the world to enjoy Trieste, businesses and the local government are working together to advance Tri- este’s coffee culture and promote its reputation abroad. The TriestEspresso Expo has played an integral role in bringing Trieste to the world and the world to Trieste. As a paragon of coffee culture, Trieste appro- priately kicked off last year’s expo with a seminar fo- cusing on the trends in consumption and production in the world: “The Rise in World Consumption and the Future of Coffee Production: A Critical Balance.” Chairman of the seminar and president of the Trieste Coffee Association, Mr. Vincenzo Sandalj, introduced the distinguished speakers from government and non- government organizations around the world: Dr. Nestor Osorio, Executive Director of the International Coffee Organization (ICO); Mr. Luiz Araripe from CECAFE, Brazil; Mr. Nguyen Quang Huy, expert of plantation department of the Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development of Vietnam; Dr. Surip Mawardi from the Indonesian Coffee and Cocoa Research Institute, Indo- nesia; Mr. Max Quirin from Anacafé, Guatemala; and Mr. Shri Krishna Rau, chairman of the Coffee Board of India. The speakers explored how production and con- sumption of coffee worldwide has evolved over the past decade and how it is predicted to transform over the next. Here, coffee t&i will provide a summary of the seminar, market overviews for Brazil, Guatemala, and India, and the speakers’ recommendations for a healthi- er, more sustainable coffee industry in years to come. The Second Coffee Crisis of the 21st Century? Although coffee consumption has grown and is projected to continue grow- ing steadily in the future, fluctuating levels of production have shown no significant growth over time and suggest only increasing volatility as consumption rises. There is a reciprocal relationship between the instability of coffee prices and production; volatility in production from year to year is responsible for the unstable price of coffee just as the changing price encourages farmers to either begin or discontinue coffee cultivation. Erratic coffee prices make it difficult for coffee growers to plan their production cycles. Small coffee growers do not have the capital or time to take the risks that cultivating coffee entails. Consequently, coffee production stagnates over the long term, but fluctuates considerably from year to year. Meanwhile, coffee producing countries have witnessed an increase in con- sumption at an average of 3.35% per year and at 2.3% for importing countries – a global yearly average increase of 2.57%. The asymmetry between consumption and production trends in the global coffee market poses a considerable threat to the coffee industry: the steadily increasing global demand for coffee will soon over- shadow the global supply caused by the acutely turbulent yet lethargic production levels. Since the last coffee crisis put millions out of business, Dr. Osorio from the ICO concluded that it is essential we ask two key questions: “How will production and consumption evolve? How we can make this industry a sound and sustainable one?” Brazil: The World’s Coffee Basket The most important factor in the global coffee market is how much Brazil produces. Coffee production is predicted to fluctuate more drastically from year to year more than it has in the past - an average of 9.2% each year over the next 10 years. For the year 2009–10, Brazil is anticipated to supply 2.2 M bags less than the expected international demand with as much as a 10 M bag deficit every other year thereafter for a 30.9 M bag cumulative deficit over the course of the next 10 years. This means that the supply of Brazilian arabica may not be enough to attend to current and increasing global demand, exacerbating the ongoing problem of price instability. A few drivers are responsible for farmer insecurity in Brazil that has cre- ated the less than desirable production outlook. The uncertain economic viability of growing coffee deters Brazilian coffee farmers from coffee cultivation. A 2.5% decrease in land dedicated to coffee produc- tion from 2002–08 suggests that growing coffee is not that lucrative for Brazilian coffee farmers. The growing demand for biofuels in the global economy has been a significant driver for farmers to convert their coffee farms to grow corn, eucalyptus, and sugar cane. In general, crops on mechanized areas bring much better returns to farmers, especially due to the increase of labor costs in hilly areas. Moreover, shifts in rainfall patterns due to climate change add to farmer insecurity, whereas more mechanized, industrial farming operations seem more secure. Despite a reasonable world price for coffee set by the ICO, the price received by farmers is reduced by deflation. Assuming world prices do not change, the amount of land dedicated to coffee cultivation is predicted to remain relatively unchanged - between 2.2 and 2.4 hectares - in the coming years. When coupled with the rising consumption of cof- fee in Brazil, the instability and general stagnancy in production will create supply problems for the global coffee market. Every year, the world consumes approximately 2 million, 60 kg bags of cof- fee more than it did the previous year – 800,000 bags of which were consumed in Brazil alone last year. Brazil in particular is showing rapid growth in consumption. The ICO estimates that in 2007–08 global consumption of coffee was 124.6 M bags and increased to 128 M bags in 2008–09. Already the largest producer of coffee and second largest consumer of coffee, at current rates of consumption, Brazil may become the leading country in coffee consumption by 2017. Brazil has the highest consumption per capita of any coffee producing country in the world (5.34 kg per capita). Although good for Brazil’s coffee industry, the growth in domestic con- sumption will in most likelihood create a deficit in the amount of coffee available for export. Without commensurate growth in production, Brazil’s domestic consump- tion may create considerable volatility in the global coffee market; Brazil will not be able to attend to the rest of the world’s demand. Guatemala’s Need for Coffee Farming Incentives In addition to Brazil, Guatemala, the leading producer of coffee in Central America, has been experiencing inert production growth with rising domestic con- sumption. Since the 1960s, the production and export of high-altitude, high-quality coffee beans has been increasing significantly as production of other kinds of coffee have been decreasing. The increase in domestic consumption is due to the in