碧萝芷Pycnogenol1对皮肤的带来的好处

碧萝芷Pycnogenol1对皮肤的带来的好处 1Pycnogenol ,1 Pycnogenolfor Beauty P. Rohdewald 1,Pycnogenol, French maritime pine bark extract, (Horphag Research Sales Ltd.) ,, the special extract from the bark of the French maritime pine, is a good candidate to be incorporated into creams and lotions. In China, claims The cosmetic industry is steadily chasing after new ingredients with promising ,for Pycnogenol had been approved that it can be used against aging and for beauty, properties. Pycnogenol because the documented research findings support these statements. ,First of all, Pycnogenol has to be safe when applied to the skin. Tests made with 17 Japanese men and 23 women showed not the slightest irritation of the skin, when ,Pycnogenol was applied for 24 hours under occlusion (tests made by Life Science ,Laboratory, Osaka). Further tests demonstrated that Pycnogenol is neither irritating for the eye, that it produces no allergic reactions and local tolerance is high even after subcutaneous application (tests had been made in Switzerland by RCC Research). One of the fundamental elements contributing to women’s beauty is the skin. A beautiful complexation; glamorous eyes and wonderful hair, that’s the dream of every lady and cosmetics promises to fulfill the dreams. Pycnogenol,, as a natural extract, containing many different constituents of pine bark, offers a broad range of actions, which help to improve the appearance of the skin. A very substantial contribution to skin-aging is UV-light. The highly energetic UV light induces free radical formation in the skin. This becomes visible as a sunburn. After prolonged and repeated exposure skin cancer may develop. It is well known that heavy exposure to sunlight promotes wrinkle formation and increases thickness of the skin, so it is mandatory to protect the skin effectively against free radicals. Pycnogenol, is an excellent free radical scavenger, as had been shown by Chida et al. (Fig. 1). It protects lipids by far more effective against peroxidation as other well- known antioxidants. As an intact lipid-barrier is essential for a healthy and pleasantly smelling skin, that preservation of the lipid barrier of the skin against free radical attack is important for skin care. , absorbs to a certain extent UV-light and reduces damage of capillaries of the skin. This could be demonstrated in experiments with shaved rats (Blaszo et al. 1997). Capillaries of the skin are damaged by UV-light, so that plasma and water Pycnogenol enters the tissue, causing an edema formation. Leakage of plasma into the skin becomes grossly visible when a blue color is injected into the bloodstream of the rats. Bright blue area of the skin signalizes damage of the capillaries because the blue color flows out of the leaky capillaries into the tissue. When rats were treated with a Pycnogenol,-containing gel, that coloration of the skin could be greatly reduced (Fig. 2). Another factor affecting skin health is the integrity of its structural elements. Collagen and elastin are the principal components of the skin. These elements are degraded not only by free radicals, but also by certain enzymes, proteases, produced by inflammatory cells. Experiments made with Pycnogenol, and with two of its metabolites (Grimm et al. 2004) found in human blood, revealed that the destruction ,of elastin and collagen by proteases is inhibited by Pycnogenol and, even more, by ,its active metabolites (Fig. 3). Pycnogenol not only inhibits the activity of the enzymes, it blocks also the release of these enzymes from inflammatory cells. The ,metabolites of Pycnogenol inhibited the release even more effectively (Grimm et al. 2004). ,Some of the constituents of Pycnogenol are bound to the surface of the skin, acting as a sun blocker, other compounds have been shown to penetrate through human skin and act in the underlying layers of the skin (Sarikaki et al. 2004). The accelerated healing process of the skin underlines that the absorbed constituents of Pycnogenol, stimulates skin renewal. Burn, treated with a ,Pycnogenol-containing gel (Blaszo et al. 2004), was healed the faster the more ,Pycnogenol was contained in the gel (Fig. 4); the gel alone was not effective. That ,example shows that in deed active components of Pycnogenol are helpful in restoring the damaged skin structures. ,The most impressive demonstration of the protective power of Pycnogenol has been made with hairless mice, which are of course totally unprotected against radiation ,-containing gel (Sime and Reeve 2004), the mice developed skin cancer clearly later and to a lesser extent as mice treated with the and therefore prone to develop skin cancer. When these mice were treated after UV-,Pycnogenol-free gel (Fig. 5). This extreme experiment demonstrates that radiation with a Pycnogenol ,Pycnogenol helps to prevent skin cancer formation even when the damage of the skin by UV light was already done. This has to be seen in context with the findings ,that Pycnogenol stimulates the synthesis of antioxidative enzymes inside cells (Bayeta et al. 2000) and protects DNA against free radical induced damage (Nelson et al. 1998). Taking into consideration all these examples together, one can see that Pycnogenol, has a protective function. As a constituent in cosmetics, it is complementary to those ingredients which take care of ladies appearance by just hydrating or creaming the skin. The high affinity to the skin, its protection against free radicals and proteases and its regenerative power predestine Pycnogenol, for skin care. References: 1. Blaszo G, Gabor M and Rohdewald P. Antiinflammatory activities of procyanidins containing extracts from pinus pinaster Ait. after oral and cutaneous application. Pharmazie 52:5-7, 1997. 2. Grimm T, Schäfer A, Högger P. Antioxidant activity and inhibition of matrix- ?metalloproteinases by metabolites of maritime pine bark extract (Pycnogenol). Free Rad Biol Med 36: 811-822, 2004. 3. Sarikaki V, Rallis M, Tanojo H, Panteri I, Dotsikas Y, Loukas YL Papaioannou G, Demetzos C, Weber S, Moini H, Maibach HI and Packer L. In vitro percutaneous absorption of pine bark extract (Pycnogenol) in human skin. J Toxicology; Cutaneous and Ocular Toxicology 23(3): 149-158, 2004. ?4. Blazsó G, Gábor M, Schönlau F, Rohdewald P. Pycnogenol accelerates wound healing and reduces scar formation. Phytother Res 18: 579-581, 2004. 5. Sime S, Reeve VE. Protection from inflammation, immunosuppression and ?carcinogenesis induced by UV radiation in mice by topical Pycnogenol. Photochem & Photobiol 79:193-198, 2004. 6. Bayeta E, Benjamin MS and Lau BHS. Pycnogenol inhibits generation of inflammatory mediators in macrophages. Nutrition Research 20: 249-259, 2000. 7. Nelson AB, Lau BHS, Ide N, Rong Y. Pycnogenol inhibits macrophage oxidative burst, lipoprotein oxidation and hydroxyl radical-induced DNA damage. Drug Develop and Ind Pharmacy 24: 139-144, 1998. Legends: Fig. 1: Lipids were exposed to an oxidative environment in presence of various antioxidants in equal amounts of 250 ng/ml. The percentage of lipids saved from oxidation by each antioxidant is shown [Chida et al., 1999]. Fig. 2: Pycnogenol, in an aqueous gel containing 5 % hydroxy-ethyl cellulose 2was applied to shaved and depilated rat skin (300 mg/ 15 cm). Rats were i.v. injected a blue dye (Evans blue) and the skin was then exposed to UV radiation (296.7 – 313.1 nm). The discolouration of the depilated skin was assessed 2 h after irradiation as a measure of capillary permeability. Fig. 3: Mean concentrations of Pycnogenol, and its metabolites formed in the body (M1 and M2), that produced 50 % inhibition of the enzyme matrix- metalloproteinase 2 (MMP-2) activity toward degradation of collagen or ,elastin, respectively. The metabolites of Pycnogenol formed in the body are more effective than the parent molecules in inhibiting the enzymatic degradation of collagen and elastin. Fig. 4: Pycnogenol, was applied in gel to wounds induced by heat treatment. The gel was applied each day until healing was achieved. Gel ,containing 2% or 5% Pycnogenol sped up the healing process by 3 days. Fig. 5: Development of skin cancer in nude mice exposed to UV-light every day. Mice were treated with a gel containing no Pycnogenol, (red), 0.05 % (yellow) or 0.2% (green) always after UV-exposure. The ,treatment with Pycnogenol significantly lowered the incidence of skin cancer. Fig. 1: 100% 80% 60% 40% 20% Protection from oxidation 0% Q10vit Clipoicvit EgrapePycnogenol? acidseed Figure 2: 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 0.1% 0.3% 1.0% gel only Inhibition of vascular permeability [%]Pycnogenol in gel Figure 3: collagen60 50 elastin40 30 20 10 0IC50 concentration [,g/ml] PycnogenolM1M2 Figure 4: 16 15 * 14 **** 13 Wound healing time [days]12 ControlControl1% 2% 5% ?untreatedgel onlyPycnogenol gel Figure 5: 6 Lotions with Pycnogenol5 0 % 40.05% 3 0.2%2 1 0Average number of tumours per mouse 1015202530 Weeks