利用阳光中的紫外线提亮肤色技术

SKINCARE121April2017PERSONALCAREEUROPESun-activatednaturalsforinstantandlong-termbeautynLikivonOppen–BezalelPhD,FabienHavasPhD,MichalShevachPhD,AviShteviPhD,OlgaBen-Chitrit–IBR,IsraelFluorescentmaterialsabsorblightenergyatagivenwavelength,andre-emititatalongerwavelength.Thepeakwavelengthoftheemittedlightiswhatdeterminesthecolourofthefluorescentlightemitted.Fluorescencehasindustrialapplications,suchasbrightenersusedinthepaperandfabricindustriesandinoralcare.Theseapplicationsgenerallyemploysynthetic,sometimesharmfulcompounds.Herewereportontheuseofnaturalfluorescentsubstancesfromtwosources:phytoeneandphytofluenefromtomatoes,asIBR-TCLC®(tomatocolourlesscarotenoids),andHylocerusundatus,extracttheIBR-Dragon®,whichwererespectivelyfoundtodeliverinstantskinlighteningandanti-redness,andoverallskinbrighteningeffects.BothmaterialswerefoundtofluoresceunderUVlight,andemitlightinthevisiblespectrum,greenandbluerespectively.Thetomatoextract,IBR-TCLC(nowreferredtoas‘tomatocolourlesscarotenoids’),usedintheworkreportedhereisknowntocontainphytoeneandphytofluene,membersofthecarotenoidfamily,agroupofmorethan700isoprenoidcompoundsfoundwidelythroughoutnature,butsynthesisedonlybyplants,algae,fungi,andbacteria,wheretheyhelpneutralisetissue-damagingfreeradicals.1Phytoeneandphytofluenearetheprecursorsforthebiosynthesisofallothercarotenoidsinnature.ThesecarotenoidsabsorblightintheUVrange,withphytoeneabsorbingintheUVBrange(λmax287nm)andphytoflueneabsorbingintheUVA(λmax348nmand366nm).Theydonotabsorblightinthevisiblerangeandarethusdevoidofvisiblecolour.Phytoeneandphytofluenearethusabletodeliverbenefitstoskin(andotherorgans)withouttheundesirablestrongcolourationassociatedwiththecolouredcarotenoids.Phytoeneandphytofluenehavebeenshowntoactasfree-radicalquenchers,2-4DNAprotectors,melaninsynthesisinhibitors,collagenaseexpressioninhibitors,anti-inflammatoryagents,5andphotoprotectors6offeringreliefofseveralundesirablephenomenaandbeautifyingtheskin.7-8Additionally,phytoflueneisknowntobefluorescentunderUVlight,emittinglightinthegreenrange.IBR-Dragonisextractedfromthepitaya(dragonfruit),aplantthatgrowsinaridclimatesandhasanancientlegendarybackground.Itisknownforitsabilitytodeliverskinbenefitsincluding:lPreservationofyouthandpreventionofageing:containsdorminstoslowdowncellproliferationandageing,affectingintrinsicageingfactors;antioxidantandUVprotectiontoslowdownextrinsicageing.lAdaptationtoharshconditions:carbohydratesandpolysaccharidesformoisturerestoration,skinhydrationandtightening;vitaminCandminerals(P,Zn,Mg,andothers)forreductionofoxidativedamage&inflammation,quickerwoundhealingandreducedskinAbstractFluorescentmaterialsabsorblightenergy,andre-emititatalongerwavelength.Fluorescenceisusedinarangeofindustries,includingcosmetics.Usually,syntheticsubstancesareemployed.Inthisarticle,wepresenttheuseofnatural,UVactivated,fluorescentactiveingredientstodeliverinstantskinlighteningandanti-redness;andoverallskinbrighteningeffects.Inonestudy,weusedthenaturalgreenfluorescenceofphytoeneandphytoflueneintheformofIBR-TCLC®(tomatocolorlesscarotenoids),todeliverinstantskinlighteningandrednessreduction.Thiswasdemonstratedinaplacebo-controlledstudyusingUVandfullspectrumlightphotographyandquantitativemeasures(colorimeter).Inasecondstudy,weusedthenaturalbluefluorescenceofdragonfruitextractnamedIBR-Dragon®todeliverimmediateandlong-termoverallskinbrighteningeffectsusingbothphotographicdemonstrationandquantitativeinstrumentalmeasurements.Inthestudiesreportedabove,wemakeuseofthematerials’naturalUVinducedfluorescence,leveragingcolouropponencytheorytodeliverreal,measurable,andconsumer-perceptiblebeautybenefits–usingnaturalandsafecompounds.Figure1:FluorescenceprofileanddemonstrationofIBR-TCLC(greenish,left),andIBR-Dragon(blueish,right).122SKINCAREPERSONALCAREEUROPEApril2017rash,improvedbarrierandcellhydration;flavonoidstoprotectagainstUVA&UVB,photooxidationandheat.lBrighter,luminescentandnaturallyradiantskin:naturalfluorescenceinblueunderUVforimmediatebrighteningeffect;longtermcontributiontoskinradiancebydivertingcellenergytoskinmatrixmetabolisminsteadofcelldivisionandageing.Inthiscommunication,wepresentthecompletefluorescenceprofilesoftheextractspreparedfrombothsourcesabove,aswellastheresultsofstudiesperformedwiththesematerials,andwillshowthedeliveryofinstantandlong-termskinbeautybenefits.VisualdemonstrationsoffluorescenceanditseffectsMaterialsandmethodsThefollowingextractswereusedthroughouttheworkreportedherein:tomatocolourlesscarotenoidsSolanumlycopersicum(tomato)fruitandIBR-DragonHylocereusundatusfruit(dragonfruit)extract(nowreferredtoas‘dragonfruitextract’).Visualdemonstrationswerecapturedusinglong-waveUVAlighting‘blacklight’,withpeakwavelengthatca.365nmandaFigure2:Illustrationofthehuecancellationexperiment.9HuecancellationexperimentHuecancellationexperimentFigure3:Creamapplication–imagesunderUVlight.Right:activecream;left:placebo.Figure4:ImagesunderUVlight,activecreambefore(left)andafterapplication(right).standarddigitalcamera.ThefluorescenceprofilewascarriedoutinafluorescencespectrometerFL920(EdinburghInstruments).ResultsanddiscussionFigure1conveysvisualdemonstrationsofthefluorescenceprofileandimageofthetwoproductsunderUVA.Tomatocolourlesscarotenoidsshowasingle,well-definedfluorescencepeak,inaccordancewiththepresenceofasinglefluorescentfluorophoreintheproduct.Incontrast,dragonfruitextractshowsacomplexfluorescenceprofilewithseveralpeaks,indicatingthelikelypresenceintheextractofmorethanonecompoundwithfluorescentproperties.Interestingly,theexcitationrangeshowntoleadtofluorescencebeginsattheUVrangebutextendsintothevisiblerangeaswell,indicatingthatvisiblelightmayalsoleadtosomefluorescenceinthedragonfruitextract.Colouropponencytheorywasestablishedwiththehuecancellationexperiment,inwhichsubjectswereinstructedtoadjustamixtureofredandgreenlightsuntilitappearedneitherreddishnorgreenish.Atthispoint,ittypicallyappearedyellow(notably,notreddishorgreenish).Likewise,onecanadjustamixtureofblueandyellowlightstoappearneitherbluishnoryellowish.9Followingonthisconcept,wewereabletodemonstrateahuecancellationeffectontheskinfromtherespectivegreenorblueUVinducedfluorescenceofthephytoeneandphytoflueneorthedragonfruitextract,withtherednessoryellowness(sallowness)oftheskin.Invivodemonstrationofimmediaterednessreductionandskinlighteningwithphytoene-andphytofluene-richextractMaterialsandmethods:phytoeneandphytoflueneextractstudyAcream-gelcontaining1.5%Solanumlycopersicum(tomato)fruitextract(tomatocolourlesscarotenoids)wastestedagainstplaceboinapilotclinicaltrial.Inthisstudy,theproductswereappliedsplit-face(leftvs.right)on4volunteerswithFitzpatrickskinphototypeIandII(2withnotableskinrednessand2withnormalskin),withmeasurementstakenatt0andt0+1hforevaluationoftheimmediateeffectinpresenceofproductontheskin.ImagesofactivecreamandplaceboweretakenunderUVilluminationaswellasfullspectrumlight.ThefluorescenceoftheactivecreamisclearlyseenaswellastheeffectontheskinunderUVlightandfullspectrumlight(Figs3-5).SKINCARE123April2017PERSONALCAREEUROPEQuantitativeassessmentofefficacywascarriedoutusingaChromameterCR-400formeasurementofskincolourevolutionusingafull-daylightilluminanttoensurethebestmatchtoreal-lifeconditionsaswellastheleveragingofthefluorescenceeffect.ResultsThechromameterdata,summarisedinFigure6,showsanimmediate,significantrednessreductionandlighteningeffectuponproductapplication,expressedrespectivelyinadecreaseina*andanincreaseinL*.Themultiplelongtermbenefitsofthephytoene-andphytofluene-basedproductsareknownandwereshowninprecedingpublicationsandmarketingcommunications.Theseinclude:lBodycare:cellulitereductionandsmoothingofstretchmarks;smooth,flawless,even-toned,hydratedskin.lFacialcare:long-termanti-ageingbenefits;photoprotection;eveningofskintone.lHaircare:protectionofhairfromsun-inducedcolourfadinganddulling.Invivostudy:instantskinbrighteningwithHylocereusundatusfruitextractanditslongtermbenefitsMaterialsandmethodsAcream-gelcontaining1%Hylocereusundatusfruitextract(dragonfruitextract)wastestedagainstplaceboinadouble-blindclinicalstudy.Twenty-sixvolunteerswererecruitedbetweentheagesof35-55,withFitzpatrickskinphototypesII-IIIandatleastsomeageingsigns(e.g.wrinkles,somesallowskin)intheperioculararea.Theproductswereappliedsplit-face(leftvs.right)twicedailyfor4weeks,withmeasurementstakenatD0,D0+1hfortheimmediateeffectoftheproductonskin,andD28forlongtermeffecttakenwithoutproductapplicationonthatday,i.e.withoutproductontheskin.Assessmentofefficacywascarriedoutusingthefollowingmethods:lChromameterCR-400forassessmentofskincolourevolutionlVisia-CAstandardisedimagingforassessmentofwrinklesandUVspotslPrimos3DfringeprojectionimagingforassessmentofwrinklesandroughnesslTewameterTM300forassessmentofskinbarrierfunctionbytrans-epidermalwaterlosslClinicalgradingbytrainedclinicianlSubjectiveself-assessmentbyquestionnaireImportantnote:standardisedimagingandchromametrywerecarriedoutusingafull-daylightilluminant,i.e.includingaUVcomponent,toensurethebestmatchtoreal-lifeconditionsaswellastheleveragingofthefluorescenceeffect.ResultsanddiscussionUndertheconditionsdescribedabove,thefollowingresultswereobtained:TheColorimeterdatashowsclearimprovementsinL*(luminance),withstatisticalbreakfromplacebo,at1handat28daysforimmediateandchroniceffectsrespectively.At28days,theimprovementisgreater,andshowsstatisticalsignificancebothvs.placeboandbaseline.Similarly,theITA(asingle-numbermeasureofskintonecalculatedbasedonLandb:ahigherITAcorrespondstolighterskin)showsastatisticallysignificantimprovementvs.placeboat1h,andvs.placeboandbaselineat28days.ResultsaresummarisedinFigure8.TheVisiadatashowssmallbutsignificantimprovementsinUVspotscountandarea.Ofparticularinterestheretoo,isthefluorescenceeffectvisibleinthephotographstaken1hafterapplication.ThePrimosdatashowsastrong,statisticallysignificant(vs.baselineandplacebo)reductioninwrinklecount(-33%)aswellasasignificantreductioninwrinkleFigure5:Imagesunderfullspectrumactivecreambefore(left)andafterapplication(right).Figure6:ChromameterresultsoftheSolanumlycopersicumpilottrial.Ineachpair,theactiveisinredtotheleftandtheplaceboisinorangetotheright.Figure7:IllustrationofthebluefluorescenceofIBR-Dragononhalfface(right),photographedunderblack-light.Absolutevariation1.501.000.500.00-0.50-1.00-1.50-2.00-2.50-3.00VariationoftheL*Absolutevariation3.002.001.000.00-1.00-2.00-3.00VariationoftheA*-2.06-2.39-2.22-1.12-2.32RedNormalTotalRedNormalTotal0.971.061.10-2.361.03-0.65nActivenPlacebonActivenPlacebo124SKINCAREPERSONALCAREEUROPEApril2017volume(-9%)andlength(-13%)allat28days(graphnotshown).Theskinbarrier(TEWL)datashowsastatisticallysignificantskinbarrierimprovement:-22%waterlossatD28withtheactive,vs.placeboandbaseline.Finally,thesubjectiveself-evaluationshows,at28days,statisticallysignificantbenefitsonparametersincludingskintone;skinradiance/brightness;skinevenness;andskinsallowness(datanotshown).Illustrativephotographs,showingtheinstanteffectsofactiveproductapplicationonskintone,canbefoundinFigure11.ConclusionMuchemphasisisplacedinthebeautyindustryonskinradianceandahealthyglow.Thesecharacteristicsarehighlyprizeduniversallyandaredesiredbothasaninstanteffectandlong-termproductbenefit.WehaveshownthatproductssuchasIBR-DragonandIBR-TCLC,leveragingnaturalfluorescenceeffects,caninstantlyimproveskinradianceandbrightness,todeliverreal,measurable,andconsumer-perceptiblebeautybenefits.References1.BendichA,OlsonJA.Biologicalactionsofcarotenoids.FASEBJ.1989;3:1927-32.2.vonOppen-BezalelL,LernerE,KernDG,FullerB,SoudantE,ShaishA.IBR-CLC®,ColorlessCarotenoids:PhytoeneandPhytofluenefromUnicellularAlgae–ApplicationsinCosmetics,WellnessandPCNutrition.FragranceJournal2006;34(3):48-53.3.vonOppen-BezalelL.ColorlessCarotenoids,phytoeneandphytofluenefortheskin:forpreventionofaging/photo-agingfrominsideandout.SOFW-Journal2007;2007(7).4.vonOppen-BezalelL.UVA,AMainConcerninSunDamage:ProtectionfromtheInsideandOutsidewithPhytoene,Phytofluene,theColorlessCarotenoidsandmore.SOFW-Journal,2007(11).5.FullerBB,SmithDR,HowertonAJ,KernD.Anti-inflammatoryeffectsofCoQ10andcolorlesscarotenoids.J.Cos.Derm.2006;5(1):30-38.6.vonOppen-BezalelL,FishbeinD,HavasF,Ben-ChitritO,KhaiatA.Thephotoprotectiveeffectsofafoodsupplementtomatopowderrichinphytoeneandphytofluene,thecolorlesscarotenoids,apreliminarystudy.Glob.Dermatol.2015;2(4):178-182.7.vonOppen-BezalelL,Ben-ChitritO,HavasF,KaloE.Foodforskin:phytoeneandphytofluenerichtomatopowderasanutricosmeticsingredient,protecting,lighteningandeveningtheskintone,SPCMagazine2014–Nutricosmetics. 8.vonOppen-BezalelL,HavasF,RamotO,KaloE,FishbeinD,Ben-ChitritO.PhytoeneandPhytofluenefor(Photo)Protection,AntiAging,LighteningandEveningofSkinTone,SOFW-Journal2014;140:7-2014. 9.http://www.cns.nyu.edu/~david/courses/perception/lecturenotes/color/color.html.Figure8:ChromameterresultsoftheHylocereusundatusextractclinicaltrial.Resultsarepresentedat1handd28;ineachpair,theactiveproductisleftinredandtheplaceboisrightinorange.Figure9:Visiadata-UVspots(activeonlyshowninphotographs;inthegraphtheactiveproductisleftinredandtheplaceboisrightinorange).Figure10:TEWLdata(theactiveproductisleftingreenandtheplaceboisrightinpurple).D0D1HD28Figure11:Illustrativefull-spectrumphotographs:1%IBR-DragonHylocereusundatusextractincream-gel,instantbrighteningeffect%change(%)1.51.00.50.0-0.5-1.0-1.5-2.0%change(%)10.08.06.04.02.00.0-2.0-4.0-6.0-0.2D1H-1.51.3-1.3**D28dL*variation1.3-4.4-3.47.5D1HD28dITAvariation**%change(%)0.0-5.0-10.0-15.0-20.025.0-30.0-35.0-40.0-9.1-22.4*nActivenPlacebo2.00.0-2.0-4.0-6.0%change(%)UVspotscountsvariation1.5-1.1D1HD28d*-5.20.6N.SLuminescentunderUVnActivenPlacebonActivenPlacebonActivenPlacebo