奢侈品经过深思熟虑的

奢侈品经过深思熟虑的 Luxury: Considered Exploring the shift from conspicuous to discerning consumption and what it means for the luxury industry. 探索从炫耀性消费到精明消费的变化与这种变化对奢侈品行业意味着什么。 Luxury: Considered Attachments We are extremely grateful to our panel of senior executives from major global luxury brands, consumer trend commentators, non-governmental organisations (NGOs), fashion journalists and trade associations for sharing their insights and opinions with us. 我们非常感谢来自全球主要奢侈品品牌的高级执行官、消费趋势评论家、非政府组织、时尚记者和贸易协会组成的代表小 组，与我们分享他们的洞察力与意见。 Research Methodology 研究 In-depth interviews were conducted with the panellists by telephone. The interviewees were chosen by Ledbury Research for their expertise and know-how and spread across a number of areas and geographies to provide a more holistic understanding of the impact of current consumer trends. 对代表小组成员的深入采访是通过电话进行的。这些受访者是由Ledbury Research（一家专门研究高端消费行为的咨询公司）选出的，都具有专门技能和专业知识，分布在不 同领域与地域，以便得到更全面的对现今消费趋势的影响力的了解。 Interviewees included senior executives from major global luxury brands, consumer trend commentators and authors, NGOs, industry-body representatives and fashion journalists. The majority of our expert panel has a deep knowledge of the luxury consumer and the luxury industry in the US and globally, and some have speci?c expertise in the emerging and dynamic markets of India and China. In total 21 interviews were conducted during Q3 2008, with conversations lasting up to one hour. During the course of researching this report we also spoke to Peter Frankental, Economic Relations Programme Director, Amnesty International UK and Liza Lort-Phillips, Associate Director, Corporate Citizenship. The ?ndings from all the interviews have been supplemented by secondary research on the luxury sector from a range of respected third-party sources such as Barclays Bank, Merrill Lynch and Globescan, the public opinion and stakeholder research consultancy. 受访者包括来自全球主要奢侈品品牌的高级执行官、消费趋势评论家、 作家、非政府组织、行业主体代表与时尚记者。大多数我们代表小组成员对美国以及全球奢 侈品消费与奢侈品行业都有深入了解，其中一些对于新兴的有活力的印度与中国市场有特别 专业的知识。2008年第三季度期间总共21次的访问，每个谈话都达到了1个小时。在研究 这份报告的过程中，我们还与国际特赦组织的经济关系项目主任Peter Frankental与企业公 民的副主任Liza Lort-Phillips进行过谈话。并且对一些受人尊敬的第三方的奢侈品部门（如 巴克莱银行、美林银行与盟友等）、公众舆论以及利益相关者的研究咨询公司进行辅助研究 用以补充所有采访的结果。 About De Beers Group De Beers, established in 1888, is the world‘s leading diamond company with unrivalled expertise in the exploration, mining and marketing of diamonds. The De Beers Group, and its joint venture partners, operate in 25 countries across ?ve continents employing around 20,000 people. From its mining operations across Botswana, Namibia, South Africa, Tanzania and Canada, the De Beers Group produces and markets approximately 40% by value of the world‘s supply of rough diamonds. As part of the company‘s operating philosophy, the people of De Beers Group are committed to living up to diamonds by making a lasting contribution to the communities in which they live and work. The De Beers Group encourages sustainable working to ensure long-term positive development for Africa, and returns approximately US$4.7 billion to the continent every year. For further information about the De Beers Group visit www.debeersgroup.com. 戴比尔斯成立于1888年，是世界上领先的钻石公司，在钻石勘探、开采与营销方面具有无可匹敌的 专业技能。戴比尔斯集团与其合作伙伴运营在五大洲25个国家，拥有超过20,000个员工。戴比尔斯集团通过在博茨瓦纳、纳米比亚、南非、坦桑尼亚与加拿大的矿业营运，生产与销 售着大约占世界总量价值40%的钻石原石。作为公司运营哲学的一部分，戴比尔斯集团员 工通过对他们生活和工作的社区所做的持久贡献致力于不辜负钻石。戴比尔斯集团鼓励能保 证非洲长期的积极发展的可持续性工作，并且每年大约回馈非洲大陆47亿美元。如需对戴比尔斯集团做更深入了解请访问www.debeersgroup.com。 About Ledbury Research Ledbury Research Ledbury Research is the leading research agency that specialises in helping brands who market and sell to af?uent consumers around the world. Ledbury has developed a unique expertise in connecting with these hard-to-reach, yet crucially important and in?uential individuals, and counts among its clients many of the world‘s top luxury goods brands and wealth management ?rms. Aside from consumer research assignments, Ledbury‘s Industry Research team conducts extensive secondary and industry research projects, and produces High Net Worth –a unique monthly publication that provides a digest of data, trends, insights and opinions about the wealthy and the industries that serve them. Ledbury has an unrivalled reputation within the luxury goods sector, where it is seen as a leading authority and ?go-to‘ ?rm for facts, ?gures and analysis of trends. It works closely with Corporate Citizenship, a research consultancy that provides the creative strategy, management consulting and two-way communications to enable companies to be a social, economic and environmental force for good. Ledbury Research是专业致力于帮助向全球范围内对富人进行营销的品牌的领先的咨询代理公司。公司发展出了一套独特技术用以 与那些难以接触却至关重要并且具有影响力的人联系，客户多是世界顶级奢侈品品牌与财富 管理公司。除却消费者研究工作，Ledbury行业研究小组还进行着广泛的次级调研与行业调 研工作，并且还出版了唯一一本提供关于富人和为其服务的行业的资料、流行趋势、洞察力 和意见的文摘月刊----《超级富翁》（High Net Worth）。Ledbury Research在奢侈品行业中有着无与伦比的名望，被人们视为权威和寻求流行趋势的真实情况、数据和分析的企业。公司 也企业公民有着紧密的合作。 Foreword The luxury industry has prospered in the last decade, fuelled by a wealth boom across the developed economies of the US, Europe and Japan and the burgeoning wealthy elite in China, India, Russia, Brazil and the Middle East. As the luxury industry prepares itself for harder economic times, it has never been more important to understand evolving consumer needs. 奢侈品行业受到美国、欧洲与日本整个发达的经济体中财富的激增和在中国、印度、俄罗斯、巴 西与中东急速增长的拥有大量财富的精英的刺激，近十年来十分繁荣。奢侈品行业做好了迎 接更艰难的经济时期的准备，这对理解推理消费者的需求来说从未如此的重要过。 Luxury consumers are increasingly feeling the pressure and, in turn, becoming more discerning in their consumption. The age-old desires for the highest standards of quality and authenticity continue, but newer, more sophisticated demands for enhanced experiences and responsible business behaviour are emerging. Consumers are looking for the return they will get from the experience of owning, wearing or giving fewer, better things. ?Brand value‘ has never been under so much scrutiny. 奢侈品消费者越来越感觉到压力，转而在消费中变得越来越有 辨识力。由来已久的对质量和真品的高的要求还持续着，但是新的对更高的经验与负责 任的商业行为的要求也浮现了。消费者在寻求着他们会在拥有、佩戴或赠送数量更少却更好 的物品的经历中得到的回报。“品牌价值”从未处于如此细致的审视之下。 This will have a profound and lasting impact on the way luxury companies do business -from the very large, global players to smaller niche brands and retailers. At De Beers Group we believe success will come to those who live up to the inherent luxury value of excellence through the way they do business and the products they sell. 奢侈品公司做生意的方法会给这种审视留下深刻 且持久的印象，从大型的跨国公司到小型的填补稳固市场的缝隙品牌与零售商都是如此。在 戴比尔斯集团，我们相信成功的会是那些通过他们的经营方式和他们贩卖的产品从而实现奢 侈品固有的追求卓越的价值的人。 We call this, simply, living up to diamonds. 简单的说，我们把这个叫做----不愧对钻石。 Diamonds, for instance, have endured the test of time. They are symbols of permanence and indestructibility in times of uncertainty, and are revered for their physical and emotional qualities. Yet we cannot afford to be complacent. We continually strive to meet consumer needs and uphold the integrity of the diamond promise through initiatives such as the De Beers ?Best Practice Principles‘. 例如，钻石历经时间的检验。在变化无常的世间他们是持久与不灭的代表，并 且因其物理与情感上的特质备受推崇。然而我们不能自满。我们一直致力于满足消费者的需 求并且通过例如戴比尔斯的钻石最佳执业守则的倡议来维护钻石承诺的诚信。 This report was commissioned with Ledbury Research to provide an insight into the evolving demands of in?uential, top-tier luxury consumers in developed and emerging markets, especially within the context of the economic slowdown. While we acknowledge the importance of growth markets such as Russia, Brazil and the Middle East to the luxury industry, India and China are a key focus of this report. These countries have been identi?ed as having signi?cant potential for luxury in terms of growth and volume in the future. 这份报告是委托Ledbury Research所出具， 对在已开发的市场与新兴市场中，特别是在经济发展减退的大背景下，有影响力的高级奢侈 品的消费者的需求演变提供深入了解。虽然我们也意识到了像是俄罗斯、巴西和中东这样的 发展中的市场对奢侈品行业的重要性，但是印度和中国仍是这份报告的主要焦点。这两个国 家被一致认为，在未来，其奢侈品市场的成长与份额具有重大的潜力。 The report brings together the views of a bespoke independent panel of leading commentators on luxury, responsible practice and consumer behaviour from across the US, Europe, China and India. It focuses on the transition from conspicuous to considered consumption (?what you wear‘ to ?who you are‘) and the growing consumer call for product traceability, supply chain standards, product authenticity and quality. 这份报告集合了一整个特定的独立专家组，包括来自美国、欧洲、中国和印度的在奢侈品、责任行为与消费者行为领域的前沿评论家。 报告焦点集中在从炫耀性消费到精明消费的转变（从“你穿戴着什么”到“你是谁”），以及 日益增长的对产品起源、供应链标准与产品的货真价实与品质的消费者需求。 We hope the ?ndings provide food for thought and insight into the evolving motivations of the luxury consumer of tomorrow. 我们希望这些发现可以为以后刺激奢侈品消费者数量增长 的想法与洞察力提供素材。-- GARETH PENNY GROUP MANAGING DIRECTOR, DE BEERS 戴比尔斯集团营销总监GARETH PENNY Executive Summary 1. Despite the more recent shift into harder economic times, the last decade has seen the luxury industry treble in size. The number of wealthy individuals in emerging markets has been growing and these luxury buyers will have an increasing influence on the sector. 尽管最近经 济越来越困难，但是在过去十年奢侈品行业已经扩大了三倍。在新兴市场的有钱人的数 量一直在增长，这些奢侈品买家会对这一区域产生越来越大的影响。 2. As their numbers and fortunes have grown, the wealthy have become more sophisticated in their buying motivations, beyond the traditional conspicuous drivers of status and prestige to more discerning and considered factors. In emerging markets, consumers are increasingly being in?uenced by Western trends and their purchasing patterns are transforming rapidly. 随 着有钱人的数量和财富的增长，他们在购买动机方面变得更加精明，超出了传统的身份 名望的明显驱使而变得更倾向于有辨识能力的深思的因素。在新兴市场，消费者日益被 西方的流行趋势所影响，购买模式也在快速转变。 3. A growing fatigue with ?fast‘ luxury products means consumers are looking for products that provide them with ?lasting value‘ – the return they will get from the experience of owning, wearing or giving fewer, better things. This shift from conspicuous to more discerning consumption will be even more in evidence as economic conditions worsen and ?brand value‘ comes under greater scrutiny. 一种对“速食”奢侈品的增长的疲软意味着消费者正在寻 找可以带给他们“持续的价值”的产品，也就是他们在拥有、佩戴或者赠予更稀有更好 的东西的经验中得到的回报。这种从炫耀性消费到更深思熟虑的消费的转变会随着经济 情况的恶化和人们对“品牌价值”的更严格的审视而越来越明显。 4. The move to more discerning consumption by top-end luxury consumers is characterized by: increased scrutiny of product quality and value for money; renewed desire for ?true luxury‘; call for deeper brandexperiences; a greater understanding of artisanship and fine craftsmanship and a heightened awareness of business, social and environmental responsibility. 尖端奢侈品消费者转向精明消费的特点在于：增强的对产品质量和是否物 有所值的审视；对“真正的奢华”的渴望的复兴；要求更深入的品牌体验；对工艺和技 术的了解增加，以及对商业、社会和环境责任的意识的提升。 5. These trends are generally motivated by more introvert drivers such as peace of mind and experience, rather than extrovert drivers such as displays of status and power. This is a broad shift away from a model of ‘what you wear,‘ to a more personality-de?ning ?what you do‘ or even ?who you are‘. 这些趋势通常是受到诸如心灵的平静与人生经历方面的更加内敛的 驱使，更少受到如社会地位与权利的表现的外放的驱使。这是从“你穿戴什么”的模式 到“你做什么”甚至“你是谁”这种更加个性的界定的显著转变。 6. This means luxury consumers are not only interested in the products themselves, but also whether the brand is upholding the luxury philosophy of excellence throughout the whole of its operations. This has implications for the way luxury players do business in the future – from large global players to smaller retailers. 这意味着奢侈品消费者不仅对产品本身感兴 趣，而且对品牌是否在经营中自始至终贯彻执行奢侈品的追求卓越的理念也感兴趣。这 就对将来从大的全球品牌到小一些的零售商的奢侈品相关经营商做生意的方式有所暗 示。 7. The return to exclusivity offers a business opportunity by creating a high-end market for more expensive and unique products. This presents a particular selling point for niche labels that are less accessible and can afford personalized levels of attention to detail. 商品独特性的回报是通过创造一个更加昂贵和独特的商品的高端市场来提供商机的。这就为那种更加难 以企及并且可以注重细节的个性化标准的填补稳固市场的缝隙品牌提供了独特的卖点。 8. Luxury consumers have a growing interest in the details of the story behind their purchase – where the product was sourced, how it was made, etc. A deeper experience of the product can enhance the brand story and build customer loyalty through greater engagement. Service is a critical part of this experience and creates an ongoing dialogue with consumers, helping them to save time (the ?ultimate luxury‘ due to its increasing scarcity). 奢侈品消费者对他们购买的商品背后的故事都越来越感兴趣，像是这件产品是从哪里获得的，是怎样制造的等等。 对一件商品更深入的体验和互动可以增加品牌故事，建立顾客忠诚度。服务是这种体验 的至关重要的一部分，与顾客不断进行对话，帮助他们不要浪费时间（由于日益稀少而 成为“最奢华的奢侈品”） 9. Committing to exemplary sourcing and supply chain standards is viewed more and more as smart business practice and is an integral part of the luxury promise, helping to build brand value. Today, reputation is increasingly built through the way a brand operates and the quality of the products it sells rather than just what it says through marketing and PR activity. 承诺原料来源的归范性与提供连锁标准越来越被视为精明的商业行为，而且是奢侈品承诺的 不可或缺的一部分，有助于树立品牌价值。今天，一个品牌的美誉度愈加是通过品牌的 运作方式和所出售的商品质量来建立的，而不仅仅是在行销和公关行为中说的多么天花 乱坠。 10. In the future, new industry standards are likely to emerge that will raise the bar on business, social and environmental responsibility, ultimately leading to a level playing field among competitors. 将来，新的行业标准很可能会出现，会提升行业限制、社会与环境责任， 最终会形成竞争对手之间的一个公平竞争的环境。 1. Luxury consumption today Despite the more recent shift into harder economic times, the last decade has seen a wealth boom and a subsequent growth in luxury consumption. The luxury goods market has undergone a period of rapid growth over the past decade, 1having trebled in size to become a $200-billion industry in 2007. Much of this growth has stemmed from previously rising global stock markets and increasing levels of personal wealth. 奢 侈品市场在过去十年间经历了一段时期的快速增长，行业规模扩大了3倍，在2007年行业 资产达到2000亿美金。这一增长很大程度上是由于之前全球的股票市场与个人财富水平的 增长造成的。 While the effects of the economic slowdown on the whole luxury goods sector remain to be 2seen, today more than 10.1 million people globally can now be classi?ed as millionaires. The majority live in developed economies, with over three-quarters residing in the US, Europe and Japan. These countries have traditionally driven luxury consumption and combined account for 1 Bain & Co., Luxury Monitor 2007 where luxury goods are de?ned as Jewellery, Watches, Apparel, Cosmetics, Drinks 2 Merrill Lynch CapGemini World Wealth Report 2007 369% of the world‘s demand for luxury goods.虽然经济发展减速对整个奢侈品行业的影响持 续可见，但是现今全球有超过一千零十万的人可以被划分为百万富翁了。他们中的大多数存 在于已开发经济体中，超过四分之三定居在美国、欧洲和日本。这些国家在传统意义上一直 推动着奢侈品消费，并且占据着世界奢侈品需求的69%。 However, this paradigm is swiftly changing. The number of millionaires in emerging markets such as Brazil, China and India has increased rapidly – at a rate of 19% in Brazil, 20% in China 4and 23% in India in 2007, far outpacing more developed economies. 然而，这个范例正在快速发生改变。在新兴市场如巴西、中国和印度的百万富翁的数量急剧上升—2007年以19%在 巴西、20%在中国和23%在印度的速度远远超过已开发经济体。 In India and China alone, luxury goods consumption grew by 18% in 2007 and is now worth 5$21.4 billion. India and China are particularly interesting as they each have a huge population and an increasingly af?uent middle-class, providing businesses with one of the most important growth 6opportunities over the next two decades.只在中国和印度，2007年奢侈品消费增长就达18%， 总值达二百一十亿四千万。印度和中国特别有趣，他们各自拥有庞大的人口数量和越来越多 的中产阶级，在未来二十年将为企业提供最重要的发展机会之一。 Such is the scale of this growth that Goldman Sachs predicts China will become the world‘s 7largest market for luxury goods by as early as 2015. Peter Frankental, Economic Relations Programme Director of Amnesty International confirms, ―I think in terms of the very size of the market, clearly the luxury goods sector will be dominated by North America and Europe for the moment but, more and more, the sector will be in?uenced by consumer habits from the Far East and India.‖ 这样的增长规模使得高盛集团（高盛集团是一家领先的金融机构，具领导地位的 全球金融机构，为世界各地不同行业的重要客户提供投资银行、证券和投资管理服务。客户 包括企业、金融机构、政府和高净值人士。公司成立于1869年，总部设在纽约，并在伦敦、法兰克福、东京、香港和世界其他主要金融中心设有分支机构。）预测中国到最早2015年将 成为世界上最大的奢侈品市场。国际特赦组织的经济关系项目主管Peter Frankental也肯定 的说：“我认为根据市场的大小，目前很显然奢侈品行业是受到北美以及欧洲控制的，但是， 这个行业会越来越受到来自远东和印度的消费者的习惯的影响。” As wealth and luxury consumption have increased, consumers have become more discerning. According to Mohan Murjani, India-based Chairman of the eponymous global brand retail group, ―Luxury consumers have always been discerning, but the concept of luxury is changing in their minds.‖ As their numbers and fortunes have grown, the wealthy have become more and more accustomed to buying luxury goods, and more sophisticated and discerning in their buying behaviour. 据将许多国际名牌精品引入印度的印度时装界大亨莫汉?梅真尼说：“奢侈品消 费者一直以来都很有辨识能力，只是在他们头脑中的奢侈品的概念在改变。”随着他们财富 的增长，有钱人越来越习惯于购买奢侈品，在购买时也更加精打细算。 A few years ago, luxury was purchased in developed markets to primarily signify status and prestige. Now, more considered reasons are re-emerging as motivators: the discovery of something 3 Ledbury Research, World Bank, company accounts, Merrill Lynch, Economist, CIA, Knight Frank, MDRC, IMF and others 4 Merrill Lynch, World Wealth Report 2008. The global average growth for numbers of HNWIs in 2006-2007 was 6% 5 Bain & Co., Luxury Monitor 2007, ?gures are for Asia-Paci?c excluding Japan. Exchange rates are 365 day average to $ for 2006 6 Business Week, May 2007 7 Goldman Sachs Global Investment research, Analysis of Chinese Demand Potential 2004 new, the rarity of the object, the promise of high quality and the pleasure of the purchase. The pace of this change is also accelerating as luxury spend comes under increased pressure with the global economic slowdown. 几年前，已开发市场的人们购买奢侈品主要为了表明身份和威望的。现 在更多的经过思量的原因正作为购买动机重新浮现：新事物的发现，事物的稀有性，高质量 的保证与购买本身的享受。这种变化的速度也在随着奢侈品的花销受到全球经济发展减速的 压力而加速。 Indeed, our panel of experts believes these changes are taking place as part of a wider shift to deeper consumer concerns in developed markets. As François Curiel, the European Chairman of Christie‘s, highlights, ―The world is moving towards more knowledge, understanding and transparency.― Gaetano Cavalieri, the President of the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO), underlines this, saying,“The luxury market today is increasingly driven by trust, balance and legitimacy, integrity and honesty.‖ 确实，我们的专家组相信，作为已开发市场中的消费者的 关注更深入的转变的一部分，这些改变正在发生。像佳士得拍卖行的欧洲主席François Curiel 强调：“世界正在向更加有知识、判断力和透明度的方向发展。”世界珠宝联合会的主席也强 调了这一点，他说：“现今，奢侈品市场更多的是受到信任、比较、合法性与诚信所驱动的。” This trend is also emerging in developing economies. The rise of a more discerning and demanding luxury consumer is not exclusive to developed economies. Emerging markets, traditionally thought to be comprised of inexperienced consumers who principally buy luxury to communicate status, are also evolving. There is evidence to suggest that these wealthy consumers are also becoming more considered in their purchasing decisions. Futurist Tamar Kasriel argues that this is because, ―[consumers] are not existing in a hermetically sealed bubble of development, unaffected by what‘s going on outside. They are increasingly becoming a key part of global trends that are shaping the luxury industry.‖ Trends in developed markets are inevitably going to have an impact on less mature luxury markets such as the Gulf States, Russia, India and China. As Divia Harilela, Fashion Editor of South China Morning Post, comments, ―It all depends on education. If consumers are reading about movements happening overseas in the media, it‘s going to trickle down [to Asia].‖ There is a belief that this transformation is taking place more rapidly than many previously thought in emerging markets. As Radha Chadha, Hong Kong-based brand strategist, explains, ―We used to say that it takes several generations before new money becomes old money, but this is changing quickly. You see the same person graduating very rapidly from covering herself up with logos to becoming a very sophisticated lady five years later.‖ 更加有辨识力与高要求的消费者不仅仅在已发展经济体中 才有所增加。在新兴市场也在增加，而传统意义上我们将新兴市场看做是由那些主要为了传 达社会地位而购买奢侈品的缺乏经验的消费者组成的。有证据表明这些消费者在做购买决定 时也正在变得更加深思熟虑。未来派艺术家Tamar Kasriel认为这是因为“[消费者]不是在发 展的密封泡泡里的，不收外界影响。他们正日益成为使奢侈品行业成形的全球趋势的关键的 一部分。”在已发展市场的流行趋势将不可避免对例如海湾国家、俄罗斯、印度和中国一类 的欠成熟的奢侈品市场产生影响。南华早报的时尚编辑Divia Harilela评论说：“这些全都要 依靠培养。如果消费者在媒体上通过阅读得知了海外的动向，那这将会汇总到[亚洲]。”人 们相信，在新兴市场，这种转化的发生比之前很多人认为的都要快。立足于香港的品牌战略 家Radha Chadha解释说：“我们习惯于说新富要成为老钱（经过几代积累的望族）就要经过 几代人的时间，但是现在这点正在快速改变。你看她5年前用商标来掩饰一切，可就是同一位女士迅速的在5年后变成了一位非常精明世故的人。” In times of economic slowdown, discerning consumption is even more in evidence. Although the panel has noticed continued resilience in the purchasing power of high-end luxury customers, economic pressures are likely to have an impact. With the global economic climate worsening, panellists predict that luxury consumers will demand even more from the brands they buy, purchasing those that deliver against a number of considerations rather than simply status or prestige. Vanessa Friedman, Fashion Editor of the Financial Times, notes ―In more difficult economic times, customers make more informed and thought out decisions.‖ The products likely to do well, in Friedman‘s view, are the ones that are special and truly justify their high price point. 尽管专家组已经注意到高端奢侈品消费者的购买力在持续回升，但是经济 压力可能还是有影响。随着全球经济恶化，专家组成员预言，奢侈品消费者会从他们购买的 品牌中要求更高，购买的是那些不仅仅是传递身份和地位的而是满足他们多方考量的品牌。 金融时报的时尚版编辑Vanessa Friedman注意到“在越艰难的经济时期，消费者越会作出见多识广的深思熟虑的决定。”根据她的观点，可能销售的好的产品，是那些特别的而且真正 可以证明他们物有所值的产品。 ―We are seeing a move away from immediate grati?cation, and in tough times luxury consumers return to basics – to investment pieces that represent genuine value because they deliver on a promise and last. For us, this is a positive shift as diamonds have this inherent value – they are crafted with skills acquired over generations, are savoured over a lifetime and can be worn in multiple ways for multiple seasons.‖ STEPHEN LUSSIER, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, DE BEERS GROUP “我们看到了消费者舍弃‘立即的满足’，在经济不好的时期，奢侈品消费 者都回归到最基本的可投资的商品，那些因为可以履行诺言、可以持续不变而象征了真正价 —他们经过数值的商品。对我们来说，这是一个积极的改变，因为钻石有着与生俱来的价值 --戴比尔代积累的技术的精巧制作，可以一生品味，还可以在多个季节以多种方式佩戴。” STEPHEN LUSSIER说 斯集团执行董事 2. Consumer trends in the luxury market The consumer trends evident among the wealthy top-tier of the luxury market often act as a barometer of the way the entire sector evolves over time. The jet-set pioneered the way for a major surge in international travel. Similarly, luxury spas that were once the preserve of a privileged few are now a more mainstream pleasure. This is due to the tendency of high-end customers to possess the means, education and knowledge to buy the best, and subsequently in?uence other groups. Our panel of industry experts explored critical elements of the attitudes and behaviour of the wealthy top-tier of consumers towards luxury in such respects as: how are consumers‘ demands and requirements of luxury evolving? What impact are these demands having on buying patterns? 专家组还在如下几方面探究了高端消费者对奢侈品的态度和行为的关键性因素：消费者对于 奢侈品的发展有怎样的要求和需求？这些需求对购买模式有什么影响？ The primacy of quality and value for money Quality was seen by our panel as the most significant actor behind the selection of a luxury 8, item. This was also evidenced in a recent report by Barclays Wealth, in which 60% of the making it a prerequisite for all luxury brands. In Curiel‘s words, ―Quality is not negotiable.‖ This wealthiest group of respondents cited quality as the primary motivation for buying luxuryextends not just to the product itself, but right through the supply chain – how raw materials are sourced, manufactured and ?nally sold to the consumer. Indeed, quality is something that should pervade every aspect of a luxury brand. Our panel highlighted that this is also the case for emerging markets such as India. Murjani says, ―Consumers will demand ?rst and foremost authenticity, which encompasses quality and design.‖ 质量被专家组看做是在一次奢侈品选择的背后最重要的参与者。这在最近的一份巴克莱财富的报告中也证实了这一点，在这份报告 中最有钱的参与调查者的那组人中有60%都将质量作为购买奢侈品的首要动机，将质量作为所有奢侈品品牌的先决条件。“质量不能商量。”这一点不仅仅延伸到产品本身，而且延伸 至产品供应链的每个环节—原材料的来源，加工，最后到达消费者手中。确实，质量是应该 遍及一个奢侈品品牌的每个方面的。专家组强调这对如印度等的新兴市场同样适用。莫真尼 说：“消费者会要求包括质量与设计的最最一流的权威。” The primacy of quality and value for money is, in part, a reflection of the make up of the luxury consumer. An increasing proportion of the world‘s wealthy are self-made business owners, who are very aware of the value of money, and the true worth of the things they buy. They expect high-end brands to go to greater lengths to justify their price points. Simonetta Morrison at Ferragamo Women‘s Leather Goods explains that, ―Consumers are looking for better quality at a better price. It‘s all part of the quality / price / value / longevity equation which is becoming more heavily scrutinised.‖ 质量与物有所值的首要性一定程度上是奢侈品消费者的构成的一种反 射。占世界上的有钱人中越来越大比例的是白手起家的自营业主，他们对金钱的价值与他们 所买的东西的真正价值非常了解。他们期望高端品牌的定位的价格点是合理的。菲拉格慕女 士皮草部的Simonetta Morrison解释道：“消费者在寻找价格低的质量好的产品。这些全都是 处于越来越仔细的审视之下的质量/价格/价值/使用寿命平衡的一部分。” Our panel predicts that even in a downturn, the wealthy will continue to spend on luxury goods that they feel are ?worth it‘ and long lasting, but will become far more selective in their choices. As Catherine MacDonald-Keir, the Editor of Luxury Brie?ng, notes, “A lot of people are choosing to buy one very expensive good quality piece, rather than lots and lots of more seasonal fashionable pieces.‖ 我们的专家组预言，即使是在低迷时期，有钱人还会继续花钱在他们觉 得“值得”和能持久的奢侈品上，但是对于他们的选择会变得更加有选择性。奢侈品简报的 编辑Catherine MacDonald-Keir注意到：“很多人选择去购买一件非常昂贵的但是质量非常好 的奢侈品，而不是去购买很多件季节性流行的东西。” A call for exclusivity Deluxe author and fashion writer, Dana Thomas, points out that many luxury brands have diluted their exclusivity by bringing out new and more accessible lines to drive pro?ts. The wealthy have responded to this trend by demanding ever-increasing levels of exclusivity from the brands they buy. This desire for exclusivity is especially important for very wealthy consumers, with 35% demanding it from their luxury purchases compared to just 18% for mass affluent consumers. 9 Deluxe杂志的作者，时尚作家Dana Thomas指出很多奢侈品品牌生产出新的 更易企及的生产线来提高利润，但是却削弱了品牌独有性。有钱人对这种趋势的回应是对他 8 Ledbury Research, Barclays Wealth, Insights, Volume 4: The True Value of Wealth, 2007 9 Ledbury Research, Barclays Wealth Insights, Volume 4: The True Value of Wealth, 2007. Mass af?uent consumers de?ned as individuals with greater than $100,000 but less than $1m in investable assets 们购买的品牌不断要求更高等级的独有性。这种对独有性的渴望对特别有钱的消费者来说尤 其重要，大约有35%的人在购买奢侈品时要求独有性，而普通有钱的消费者中只有18%要求独有性。 “People are very sophisticated these days. We see customers come into our store and scrutinize the labels.‖ DOMENICO DE SOLE, CHAIRMAN, TOM FORD “现如今人们非常世 --TOM FORD的主席多明尼故。我们看到顾客进到我们商店来然后仔细查看商品标签。” ?德?索尔 科 Perhaps the most exclusive category of all is ultra or über luxury, which several expert members of our panel comment on. It has given rise at the high-end of the market to what Mark Henderson, Chairman of Savile Row Bespoke Association, calls the ―one-by-one concept‖, where people have a growing interest in things that are ―unique, made for them and a bit of an investment‖. 也许最具独有性的种类是超豪华或者过豪华奢侈品，我们几位专家组成员对此 也有评论。被萨维尔街全定制西装协会的主席Mark Henderson称为的“一对一概念” 在高端市场有所增长，人们对“唯一的，为他们量身定做的还有一点投资价值”的东西表现出越 来越浓厚的兴趣。 This call for exclusivity is also noticeable in India and China. Both are major markets for Savile Row Bespoke suits, according to Henderson. Harilela says, ―We‘ve got stores like Comme des Garçons and Martin Margiela opening up, which we wouldn‘t have thought possible ?ve or six years ago. And because of that, brands are now starting to introduce a higher level of luxury like bespoke services or a tailored experience.‖ 在中国和印度，对独有性的要求也值得注意。 据Henderson说两国都是萨维尔街全定制西装的主要市场。南华早报的时尚编辑Divia Harilela说：“我们有像川久保玲创办的Comme des Garçons（像个男孩）和马丁?马吉拉等的专卖店在中国开业，这在5、6年前是我们连想都觉得不可能的事。因为这样，各个品牌正 开始引入奢侈品的一个更高的水准，就像定制服务或者特制的体验。” Engagement and experience across all touch-points According to our panel, consumers are demanding greater engagement and a deeper experience of luxury at every touch point with a brand. It is no longer simply a question of what they purchase, but also how they purchase luxury items. 根据我们的专家组的意见，消费者在一 个品牌的每一个品牌接触点都在要求更多的互动与对奢侈品的更深入的体验。这不再仅仅是 他们买什么的问，而且是他们怎样购买奢侈品的问题。 George Morgan-Grenville, Group Chief Marketing Of?cer at Abercombie & Kent, notes a desire of consumers is to engage more deeply with the products that they buy. He says, ―In terms of the physical experience, consumers now desire to immerse themselves culturally, socially and philanthropically – whereas ten years ago they were content to limit their involvement to a more general and less insightful encounter‖. The company now offers more authentic local experiences with the opportunity to give something back. Rejwan concurs that luxury is ―not about having something that‘s nice and expensive, but about having an amazingly memorable experience‖. 豪华旅游公司爱帕克罗比亚与肯特的首席营销官George Morgan-Grenville注意到消费者希望更深入的参与到他们购买的产品中来。他说：“就实际经验来说，消费者现在渴望使自己沉 浸在人文的、社会的和博爱的方面—然而十年以前，他们却满足于将他们参与的部分限制在 一个比较大众化而不那么深刻的一次偶遇中。”公司现在提供了有机会可以回报的更加真实 的当地体验。Rejwan赞同一点，那就是奢侈品“不是拥有点儿很好很贵的东西，而是拥有 一次惊人的值得纪念的体验。” “We are shifting from an interest in just brand to an object or a product that is a bit more individual. This is driven by the need for exclusiveness and individualism, ‘I am special, no one else has this piece, so I am different and I stand out‘.‖ FRANÇOIS CURIEL, CHAIRMAN, CHRISTIE‘S EUROPE “我们正在从仅仅对一个品牌的兴趣向更个性化一点儿的物件或者 产品在转变。这是受到独有性和个人主义的需求的驱使的，‘我是特别的，其他任何人都没 --佳士得欧洲主席FRANÇOIS CURIEL 有这件东西，所以我是不同的，我很引人注目’。” Luxury consumers are also beginning to place more value on acquired knowledge, skill and experience. Many panel members have noticed that the wealthy are increasingly interested in buying goods and services that bring them status through being better at something, and the story 10telling that stems from that experience. While US luxury consumers cut their budget for personal 11luxuries by 12% in 2007, they increased their spending on experiences by 5.2%. In the Far East, over 42% of wealthy Chinese consumers want to develop personal hobbies such as photography, 12calligraphy and music. 奢侈品消费者还在开始将自己获得的知识、技巧和经验看得更加有 价值。很多专家组成员注意到，有钱人越来越对购买那些让他们更擅长的事情来提升自身身 份地位的商品和服务感兴趣，还对讲述源于那次经历的故事感兴趣。尽管美国的奢侈品消费 者在2007年将个人奢侈品预算减少了12%，但是他们花在体验上的钱却增长了5.2%。在远东，超过42%的有钱的中国消费者想要发展诸如摄影、书法和音乐等的个人爱好。 As one of the most tangible touch points with a brand, service has a vital role to play in enhancing the customer‘s luxury experience. Excellent customer service can help save people time, something that Kasriel describes as ―the ultimate luxury‖ due to its increasing scarcity. Indeed, the British luxury trade group Walpole observed that service was one of the key differentiators between luxury brands in 2007. 作为一个品牌的最可知的接触点之一，服务在增强消费者的 奢侈品体验中扮演着至关重要的角色。出色的服务可以帮助人们节省时间，未来派艺术家 Kasriel因为其日益缺乏而将其形容为“最奢华的奢侈品”。确实，英国奢侈品组织Walpole评论到在2007年服务是奢侈品品牌间最主要的区别之一。 This has continued into 2008 with many of our commentators citing the level and quality of service afforded to a luxury customer as a critical differentiator between luxury brands today. Despite this, and clear evidence that service can help to make a shopping experience pleasurable, research shows that 53% of luxury consumers are dissatis?ed with the service they receive, often citing rude staff and poor resolution of issues as key concerns13.这种现象持续到了2008年，很多评论家引用这个观点：现今提供给奢侈品消费者的服务的水平和质量是奢侈品品牌间的最 关键的区别。尽管有这个观点和好的服务有助于使一次购物经历愉快这个明显的证据存在， 研究表明仍旧有53%的奢侈品消费者对他们得到的服务不满，例如粗鲁的员工和对关键问 题的差劲的解决方法。 Focus on provenance and the importance ofmade how? Luxury consumers have a growing interest in the details of the story behind their purchase – where the product was sourced, how it was made and what materials were used in its construction. Commentators such as Michael Rae, CEO of the Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices (CRJP), note that this concern is especially prevalent amongst younger consumers who ―are becoming more and more concerned with the provenance of the goods and services they buy‖. 奢 10www.trendwatching.com 11Unity Marketing, 2008 12HSBC and MasterCard, Insights: Understanding the Af?uent Consumers of China, 2007 13Luxury Institute, MarketWire, November, 2007 侈品消费者对他们购买的产品背后的故事细节日益感兴趣—产品来自哪里，怎样制作出来的，还有在制造时用的什么材料。评论家们，例如责任珠宝实务委员会首席执行官Michael Rae注意到，这种关注在较年轻的消费者中尤其普遍，他们“对他们购买的商品和服务的由 来变得越来越关心”。 As more luxury goods companies move production overseas, consumers are beginning to pay more attention to the country in which the product was made. Studies in the US have found that over two-thirds of luxury consumers take the country of manufacture into account when purchasing luxury items and these same findings show that China was perceived to be of lower quality than the traditional centres of luxury such as Italy or France14. Asian consumers are also aware of the differences between foreign and domestic brands, with 56% of wealthy Chinese consumers preferring to buy world famous or foreign brands, compared to the 31% who choose 15domestic and local upscale brands. 随着越来越多的奢侈品公司将生产转移到海外，消费者 对产品是在哪个国家生产的更加关注。在美国，研究发现，超过三分之二的奢侈品消费者在 购买奢侈品时将加工国家纳入考量。在同样的研究中还表明：比起作为传统的奢侈品中心的 国家例如意大利和法国，中国被认为其加工的产品的质量更差。亚洲消费者对国外和国产品 牌的区别也是有所意识的。56%的富有的中国消费者宁愿选择购买世界知名品牌或者外国品 牌，而31%的人会选择国产品牌和当地高端品牌。 However, many of our panel maintain that it is not the country of origin that specifically matters, but the way in which the product was made. As Thomas argues, ―It is less about ?made in‘ for a luxury product and more about ?made how‘‖. She maintains that consumers are more focused on issues such as the quality of production materials and the integrity of the manufacturing processes. Luxury consumers will continue to be comfortable with their luxury purchases so long as the high standards continue to be maintained. 然而，很多专家组成员坚持说，并不是产品起 源的国家特别要紧，而是产品制作方法。就像时尚作家Dana Thomas主张的：“对一件奢侈品来说‘哪里制造’不如‘怎样制造’来的重要。”她强调消费者对例如生产原料的质量和 生产过程的健全等的问题更加关注。只要品牌坚持高标准，奢侈品消费者在奢侈品购买中的 舒适将会一直持续。 It is predicted that 60% of all luxury goods would be made in mainland China by 2009 as companies shift production to take advantage of the lower costs of production16. The issue of ?made how‘ is likely to grow in importance alongside this, as consumers demand reassurances that the goods made continue to be of the highest quality. 随着各个公司利用低成本将生产转移，人 们预测，到2009年所有奢侈品中的60%的将会在中国大陆生产。‘怎样制造’这个问题很 可能会随之变得重要，因为消费者要求这种商品制造继续维持高质量才能让他们放心。 ―Asian consumers prefer their luxury brands to be made in Europe, because this has higher prestige associations. But going forward, ?made in China‘ will become acceptable in some areas if people are assured of the quality. In ?ve to ten years there should be a signi?cant change in perceptions.‖ RADHA CHADHA, AUTHOR, THE CULT OF THE LUXURY BRAND “亚种消费者更喜欢他们的奢侈品品牌是在欧洲生产的，因为这可以联想到更高的威望。但是以后，只 5到10年里，人们的要质量可以得到保障，‘中国制造’在一些地区也会被人们所接受。在 --《奢侈品膜拜》一书的作家RADHA CHADHA 观念就会有重大的转变。” Interest in environment, ethics and social responsibility 14Luxury Institute, quoted in High Net Worth, March 2008 15MasterCard, Brand Preference of China‘s Af?uent, 2008 16World Luxury Council, 2007 In the past three years our panel has seen the responsible business agenda, i.e. concerns about environmental, ethical and social responsibility issues, begin to resonate more strongly with luxury consumers. This is being driven by NGO activism, media coverage and what Rae refers to as ―marked societal change in the business world‖. Our panel believes that while this is a global movement, the luxury industry is likely to feel these increasing concerns more than almost any other sector. Frankental explains this is because luxury today is typically high-pro?le and celebrity-driven and so under far greater public scrutiny. 在过去3年，我们的专家组看到了负责任的商业日程，那就是对环境、道德和社会责任问题的关心开始与奢侈品消费者产生更强烈 的共鸣。这是受到非政府组织的激进主义、媒体的新闻报道和责任珠宝实务委员会首席执行 官Michael Rae所指的“在工商界的显著的社会变化”的所驱使的。专家组相信尽管这是全 球的运动，奢侈品行业对这些增长的关心可能会比其他行业感受更深。国际特赦组织的经济 关系项目主任Peter Frankental解释说这是因为今天的奢侈品是典型的高姿态和受名人效应 驱动，并且受到更多的大众的严格审查。 Frankie Ng, Executive Vice President for Consumer Services, SGS, the world‘s leading inspection, veri?cation, testing and certi?cation company, de?nes responsible practice as “operating in a sustainable way that safeguards the long term future of your business and that of your partners‖. Our panel agrees that there is a strong business imperative at the heart of responsible practice. In the words of Thomas, ―Businesses generally don‘t do things because it‘s the right thing to do, they do it because it‘s economically a good idea.‖ 世界上领先的审查、审核、检测和证明的公司SGS公司的消费者服务部的执行副主席 Frankie Ng将负责任的商业活动定义为“以一种可以在长久的将来保护你与你的合伙人的事业的可持续发展的方式来运 营”。我们的专家组同意在负责任的商业活动的中心有强烈的商业需要。正如时尚作家Dana Thomas所言，“企业通常不因为事情是对的才去做，而是因为从经济角度来看是个好主意才 去做。” The consensus among our panel is that high-end consumers in developed economies take these issues equally seriously. In Europe, Japan and the US, ―about 30-40% of luxury consumers claim to be concerned with purchasing responsibly‖, according to Sylvie Benard, Environment Director, LVMH. 专家组的一致意见是：在已发展的经济体中的高端消费者对这些问题一视 同仁的严肃对待。在欧洲、日本和美国，根据LVMH 集团环境主管Sylvie Benard的说法 “大 约30-40%的奢侈品消费者号称关心负责任地购买”。 Consumer interest in these issues remains limited in Asia, but this is changing. Murjani maintains that environmental and ethical concerns are still relatively in their infancy in India. In China, says Harilela, ―things like carbon footprint and ethical work practices are not really on their mind. Right now it‘s very much about buying a status symbol‖. Ng agrees that there is a ―perceived lack of concern in these countries [about responsible issues]‖, but also believes that there will be ―a faster adoption of social responsibility at a local level with local civil societies in the future‖. 消费者对这些问题的兴趣在亚洲还是很有限的，但是这个情况也正在改变。梅 真尼主张：在印度，对环境和道德的关心还处于襁褓中。在中国，南华早报的时尚编辑Divia Harilela说“人们并不真的把诸如碳排放和道德行为放在心上。现在人们非常关心的就 是购买一个身份的象征。”SGS公司的消费者服务部的执行副主席 Frankie Ng同意“人们觉察到在这些国家缺乏[对负责任的问题的]关心”，但是也相信“将来，按照当地的标准，当 地的民间团体对社会责任会有更快的采纳。” ―A few people always cared about the environmental and sustainable impacts of their purchases. But something happened one and a half to two years ago to make consumers more interested in these issues.‖ SYLVIE BENARD, ENVIRONMENT DIRECTOR, LVMH “有些人 总是对他们的购买所造成的环境和持续的影响很担心。但是有些事发生在一年半或者两年 --LVMH 集团环境主管Sylvie Benard 前，这也使消费者对这些问题更加的感兴趣。” ―When we conduct our own focus groups, consumers certainly express enthusiasm, con?dence and willingness to reward us and others for their good work. Are we encountering it on the shop floor? There has been a small increase in the instances of people enquiring about this.‖ MICHAEL KOWALSKI, CEO, TIFFANY & CO “当我们为了听取对某一问题、产品、或政策 ,而招集我们的焦点小组到一起的时候，消费者当然会因为我们和其他人的良好工作的意见 而表达热心、信心和意愿来奖励我们。我们在工作场所会遇到这种情况吗？人们质询的场合 --TIFFANY & CO的首席执行官MICHAEL KOWALSKI 倒是有所增加。” Our panel feels that changing attitudes in both India and China are being driven largely by younger consumers. Assheton Carter, Vice President, Corporate Community Engagement, Pact (an international NGO working on the supply chain of luxury goods), highlights that younger consumers in emerging markets ―are playing massive catch-up…though there‘s not much interest amongst the older generation. What we are beginning to see in China is the younger generation in their 20s and 30s, who are not so attached to state programmes, who could bring about some real change‖. Indeed, data from research consultancy Globescan reveals that the ?Mainstream Activist‘ segment in China (i.e. those who are likely to respond to CSR issues) has now reached 18% of the population where, for example, 33% of UK consumers and 45% of US consumers can now be classed in this segment. 专家组感到在印度和中国的态度的转变很大程度上是由较年轻的消 费者所驱动的。Pact（一个从事奢侈品供应链的国际性无政府组织）的副主席Assheton Carter 强调在新兴市场的较年轻消费者“正在大规模追赶„„尽管较年长一代并不怎么感兴趣。我 们现在在中国开始看到的是并不那么喜欢国家计划的20多岁到30多岁的较年轻的一代可以引发真正的改变。”确实，国际调查公司环球扫描的调查中的数据揭示了中国的‘主流激进 分子’部分（就是那些可能对企业社会责任作出响应的人）已经达到了总人口的11%，这部 分人在英国占到人口的33%，美国达到45%。 Globescan data also reveals subtle nuances in the issues close to the hearts of consumers in the different markets. Af?uent consumers in the US are primarily concerned about companies treating employees fairly and the environmental impact of corporations. In China, by contrast, consumers care mainly about whether companies have a responsible supply chain and are generally trustworthy. Furthermore, many af?uent Chinese consumers, like their US counterparts, say that they have actively ―punished‖ a brand for poor social responsibility in the past year, and some claim to have ―rewarded‖ a brand for positive behaviour. In India, there is currently far less evidence of consumers punishing brands. However, af?uent Indian consumers are certainly actively rewarding brands that they view as having solid responsible practices 17. 环球扫描的数 据还揭示了在不同市场的消费者心目当中这些问题的细微差别。在美国，富裕的消费者首要 关注的是那些公司对待员工是否公平，与企业对环境的影响。在中国，相比之下，消费者主 要关心的是那些公司是否有负责任的供应链和是否为大众所信赖。此外，很多富裕的中国消 费者，与他们在美国的参照群一样，说他们因为一个品牌过去的差劲的社会责任而主动的“惩 罚”它，有些还声称因为某品牌积极的行为而“奖励”了它。在印度，消费者肯定会主动奖 励那些他们认为有可信赖的负责任的行为的品牌的。 It would be wrong, however, to suggest that consumption of ?responsible‘ products is always because of a genuine concern for the issues. For some consumers, part of the motivation for 17 Globescan, Navigating Demands for Responsibility and Building brand Equity Through Integrity, 2008 purchasing ethical or environmentally friendly products is still one of status and being fashionable. That is, being seen to be buying the right thing, which remains a fundamental driver of luxury consumption generally. A well-known illustration of this is the case of Toyota Prius. Recent 18research has found that the top reason for purchasing a Toyota Prius is the fact ?that it makes a statement about me‘. The Prius has therefore become an iconic and visible symbol of this new, more discerning consumption with the result that its sales have soared. 然而，暗示人们总是因为 对这些问题的由衷的关心而对‘负责任的’产品进行消费是不对的。对有些消费者来说，购 买道德的产品和对环境无害的产品很大一部分的动机还是身份地位和时尚感。也就是说，被 人看见正在购买一件正确的商品，仍旧是通常奢侈品消费的驱动力。对这一点一个著名的解 释就是丰田普瑞斯（油电混合动力车）这个例子。近期的调查发现购买一辆丰田普瑞斯的头 号理由就是‘它是我的声明’。丰田普瑞斯因而成为这种新型的、更加有辨识力的消费的标 志性的与可见的标志，结果就是这款车的销量扶摇直上。 The move to more „considered? luxury consumption All of the trends discussed in this ?rst section can be described as being part of a shift towards a more discerning appreciation of luxury, where quality, authenticity and experience are increasingly important rather than extrovert factors such as displays of status and power. Rejwan summarises this as the shift from ―indulgent to considered luxury‖, away from a model of ―what you wear‖ to ―what you do‖ or even ―who you are‖. 所有在第一部分讨论过的趋势可以 被形容为向更加有辨识力的对奢侈品的欣赏的转变的一部分，在这种转变中，质量、真实性 和体验日益变得比例如身份地位和权利等的外在因素更加重要。Rejwan总结这种变化是“从 纵容向深思”变化的奢侈品，从“你穿戴着什么”的模式转变到“你是做什么的”甚至是到 “你是谁”。 菁英主义?独有性 支出?责任 身份地位?奖励 权利?意义 标志性?个性化 所有权?体验 The illustration above shows some of these changes and indicates where this more considered approach to luxury may be heading. 上述插图展示了这些变化中的一部分，并指出了这种深思熟虑的奢侈品的消费办法可能会前往何方。 3. Implications for luxury brands and retailers 对奢侈品品牌和零售商的暗示 All the trends observed by our panel point to a more complex and discerning luxury 18 CNW Marketing Research, 2007 consumer. No longer is it simply about the products at point of purchase: today, the entire brand promise is under scrutiny. This includes the guarantee of excellent quality, highest standards of materials, expert craftsmanship, exclusivity, responsibility and the impact of the purchase on wider society. We live in an age of proli?c and readily available information, where consumers need more reassurances about the things they buy. Building trust with consumers will be an important cornerstone of the future of luxury business. According to Michael Kowalski, CEO of Tiffany & Co, consumers ―don‘t spontaneously or easily articulate‖ when their trust has been broken, which means that often it is too late for brands to take redressive action. Maintaining consumer trust is an extension of the philosophy of excellence that is intrinsic to the luxury industry. As Pamela Caillens, Corporate Responsibility Director at Cartier, concludes, ―Trust is quality, plus service, plus responsibility. Selling luxury is a dream, there should be no nightmare issues lurking behind that dream.‖ 我们生活在信息年代，这些信息是十分丰富而且容易获得的。在这个年代，消 费者对他们所购买的东西需要得到再三的保证。建立起消费者对奢侈品的信心对奢侈品行业 的未来是非常重要的基础。根据Tiffany & Co的首席执行官Michael Kowalski的说法，消费者在他们对于品牌的信任被打破时“不会本能的或者轻易的说出来”，这就意味着品牌采取 礼貌性补偿活动的时候通常都已经太晚了。保持消费者的信任是奢侈品行业固有的追求卓越 的理念的延伸。卡迪亚的企业责任总监Pamela Caillens总结到，“信任就是质量，加上服务， 加上责任心。贩卖奢侈品就是在贩卖梦想，梦想的背后不应该潜伏着噩梦。” While our panel agreed that this new discerning luxury consumer is more evident in developed economies, businesses need to be aware that emerging markets are not far behind. Conventional wisdom says that deeper consumer concerns emerge as the market matures. Indeed, Friedman agrees that, ―In emerging markets, the ?rst wave of luxury consumers tend to be interested in aspirational products that are more about status and advertisement of social achievement. Once they‘re secure in that they move to the next level which is all about connoisseurship, value and integrity.‖ 尽管我们的专家组一致认为这种新的有辨识力的消费 者在已发展经济体中比较明显，但是各企业也要了解新兴市场也没有多么落后。传统意见是 随着市场的成熟，消费者更深入的关注就浮现了。金融时报的时尚版编辑Vanessa Friedman也同意，“在新兴市场，第一波的奢侈品消费者倾向于对体现身份地位和宣传社会成就的榜 样产品感兴趣。一旦他们在那个层次站稳了，他们就会向下一个层次移动，那就是鉴赏力、 估价和真实性。” This has implications for the way luxury players do business in the future – from the large global players to smaller brands and retailers in developed and emerging markets. 这对奢侈品经营者在今后的经营方式有一定的暗示，从大的全球性的经营者到小的品牌和零售商，从已发 展市场到新兴市场。 ―As consumers demand product authenticity, they want credible substantiation of a brand‘s promise. How does it do business? How are issues about the product‘s production addressed?‖ STEPHEN LUSSIER, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, DE BEERS GROUP “因为消费者要求产品的真实性，他们希望得到一个品牌的品牌承诺的可靠的证明。这个品牌怎么经营？关于产品的 --戴比尔斯集团执行董事STEPHEN LUSSIER 生产的问题是怎样提出的？” The return to exclusivity offers a business opportunity As luxury has become more accessible, or ―democratised‖ as Thomas puts it, the divide 19. Our panel believes this presents a real business opportunity for between the ?top-end‘ and the aspirational luxury consumeris growing. PPR Chairman and CEO, luxury businesses at the top-tier of the spectrum. As Murjani comments, ―Brands, having reached François-Henri Pinault, estimates that, by 2012, the very top-end of the luxury goods market could multi billion dollar pro?t levels through higher sales volumes, will now have to work harder to be worth around $6.6 billion attract the top-end, discerning customers and strengthen their positions.‖ According to Kasriel, ―Some brands are saying we‘re going to keep ourselves exclusive; we‘re going to limit distribution and limit production.‖ 随着奢侈品越来越容易得到，或者更加“大众化”（如时 尚作家Dana Thomas表达的），尖端奢侈品消费者与准奢侈品消费者之间的区别在增大。法 国奢侈品业的巨头PPR集团总裁与首席执行官François-Henri Pinault估计到2012年，最尖端的奢侈品市场会价值六百六十亿美元。专家组相信，这为奢侈品企业在最高端的市场提供 了一个真正的商机。梅真尼评论说：“那些通过高额的销售量达到了几十亿美金的利润的品 牌，现在开始将必须更努力的吸引那些尖端的有辨识力的消费者并巩固他们的地位。”根据 未来派艺术家Kasriel的说法，“有些品牌正声称我们将会保持我们的独有性，我们将会限制 销售限制产量。” The wealthy are clearly willing to pay for the best and most exclusive items to set them apart and new products are being launched o satisfy their desires. The luxury industry has responded to the call for exclusivity by ?premiumising‘ its products, buying back control of its diffusion lines and carefully limiting its offerings. When Burberry‘s exclusivity was threatened as a result of over-extending the brand into lower-ticket items such as baseball caps and scarves, it responded by launching Burberry Prorsum to reclaim its cachet as a luxury brand. Luxury phone manufacturer Vertu also launched only seven $300,000 phones to celebrate Boucheron‘s 150th anniversary. 有钱人无疑愿意为最好的最具独有性的奢侈品花钱，就为了能把他们跟其他人 区别开来，新产品就被不断的投向市场来满足他们的需要。奢侈品业通过使其产品‘优质化’， 买回他们扩散的生产线的控制权，谨慎的限制他们出售的物品来对人们对独有性的要求进行 回应。当Burberry的独有性受到由于将品牌过分扩张至例如棒球帽和围巾等的低端商品而 受到威胁时，它的反应是将Burberry Prorsum投放市场来重新树立他们作为奢侈品品牌的威 望。豪华电话制造商Vertu（VERTU是诺基亚所成立的全球第一家―奢侈‖手机公司）也将仅仅7部价值30万美金的电话投放市场来庆祝宝诗龙Boucheron成立150周年。 ―There‘s going to be a big divide between the luxury customer and the aspirational customer and it‘s growing. My sense is that there‘ll be even greater demand at the luxury end for even better, more expensive and re?ned products.‖ SIMONETTA MORRISON, WORLDWIDE MERCHANDISING AND MARKETING, WOMEN‘S LEATHER, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO “奢 侈品顾客和准顾客之间会有越来越大的区别。我觉得人们对更好更贵更精致的产品会有更大 --意大利顶级奢侈品品牌菲拉格慕女士皮草全球营销部的SIMONETTA MORRISON 的需求。” However, Morrison‘s ?quality / price / value / longevity equation‘ means brands need to strike the ?ne pro?t balance between, ―the development costs of producing a high-end product and pricing it at a level that the consumer feels is justi?ed‖. 然而，菲拉格慕女士皮草部的Simonetta Morrison所谓的‘质量/价格/价值/使用寿命平衡’意味着品牌需要取得“生产一件高端产品 的开发成本与定出消费者觉得合理的产品定价”之间的良好的利润平衡。 Interestingly, our panel felt that the trends of personalisation, quality control and exclusivity can create a particular point of difference for smaller players. Niche players, as Thomas points out, 19 François-Henri Pinault: quoted in IHT, December 7, 2006 ―can enjoy the attention to detail that bigger players simply can‘t afford‖. For example, niche producer of luxury sound systems, Steinway Lyngdorf, limits production to only 100 units, each of which is installed and ?tuned‘ to suit the room it is in. In the jewellery industry, Curiel notes, ―There is a shift to more private and exclusive designers that bring chicness and desire from collectors.‖ 有趣的是，专家组觉得个性化、质量管理和独有性可以为稍小些的品牌创造一 种独有的不同点。时尚作家Dana Thomas指出，填补稳固市场的缝隙品牌，“可以充分享受 大品牌所给不了的对细节的关注。”例如，生产豪华音响系统的施坦威•林道夫公司将产量限 制在100组，每组都被安装和调试到正好适合系统所在的房间。在饰品行业，佳士得拍卖行 的欧洲主席François Curiel注意到，“现在人们慢慢倾向于更加私人、专属的设计师，他们 可以为收藏家带来精致与渴望。” These opportunities are also in evidence in emerging markets. As more and more people become ―moneyed‖ in Asia, Chadha believes the more sophisticated end of the market, or the ―modern day maharajas‖, will evolve and grow. She predicts a comeback of ―haute couture‖ for the super-wealthy of Asia as well customised cars, yachts and planes. 在新兴市场，这些机会也十分明显。随着亚洲有钱人越来越多，《奢侈品膜拜》一书的作家RADHA CHADHA相信，更加高端的市场或者“现代王公”将会出现并且不断壮大。她预言，“高级定制女装”，连同 定制的汽车、游艇甚至飞机，都会在亚洲超级富人中重新兴起。 In China, the trend is moving towards the avant-garde and different. Harilela thinks that despite the evident Chinese regard for logos, niche labels will emerge there that are, “more interesting and less accessible than the Pradas, the Chanels‖. 在中国，时尚正向着前卫与特别发展。南华早报的时尚编辑Divia Harilela认为，不管中国人多么明显的注意商标，“比Prada或者Chanel更有趣更不易获得的”缝隙品牌还是会在那里出现。 A deeper consumer experience enhances the brand story The consumer demand for exclusivity is increasingly being extended to the whole brand experience. Morgan-Grenville con?rms, ―Brands need to give consumers the opportunity to engage with them at a more profound level.‖ This engagement needs to occur at every touch point with the brand, from product development to point of sale and aftercare. 消费者对于独有性的要求正日益扩张到整个品牌体验。豪华旅游公司爱帕克罗比亚与肯特的首席营销官George Morgan-Grenville确信，“品牌要在更深刻的层次给消费者互动的机会。”这种互动在每一个 品牌接触点都要有，从产品开发到销售与售后服务。 For instance, panellists have observed increasing consumer interest in what Henderson terms, ―construction factors‖ or the way a product is made. For example, Bentley allows its customers to visit the factory to watch their car being constructed. While the brand name is incredibly in?uential, Simonetta Morrison points out that alone it is not enough, ―You actually have to show product attributes that make you better than your competition.‖ 比如说，专家们对人们对萨维尔街全定制西装协会的主席Mark Henderson定义成的“构建因素”增长的兴趣进行了观察。 举例来说，宾利集团允许消费者到工厂来参观他们的汽车的制造。尽管品牌名字令人难以置 信的有影响力，但是菲拉格慕女士皮草部的Simonetta Morrison指出只有这个还远远不够，“实际上你必须展示出比你的竞争对手好的产品特性来。” ―An emphasis on artisanship and craftsmanship can bring to life a sense of the person that made that object.‖ TAMAR KASRIEL, FOUNDER, FUTUREAL “对工艺技术的重视可以唤起 TAMAR KASRIEL说 制作者的感觉。”未来派艺术家 Another fundamental part of a luxury product‘s value is the skill and craftmanship that goes into making it. While there has always been recognition of this among luxury brand marketers, businesses can now derive greater brand bene?ts by communicating the story behind a product‘s creation. As Kasriel points out, ―An emphasis on artisanship and craftsmanship can bring to life a sense of the person that made that object,‖ thereby making the product feel more exclusive to the luxury consumer. It can also, says MacDonald-Keir, ―communicate brand values to a consumer, 20without the need to shout too much‖. Vertu, for instance, highlights, ―It takes up to three years to 奢侈品价值另一个基本部分是从事master assembling a Vertu handset. Today there are only a handful of craftsman in the world who 制造产品的技术技能。虽然奢侈品品牌营销者对此一直很认可，现在企业可以通过传达产品 have passed this extraordinarily detailed apprenticeship.‖创造的背后的故事获得更大的品牌利益。奢侈品简报的编辑Catherine MacDonald-Keir说， 它还可以“不必大喊，就可以向消费者传达品牌价值。”例如Vertu就强调，“掌握装配一部手机的技术需要长达3年的时间。现今世界上只有屈指可数的技工通过了这种格外精细的学 徒训练。” This desire to have a greater understanding of how the product is made, extends to the consumer‘s own desire for personal development. This means that brands have the opportunity to market skills or knowledge associated with the product to individuals. For instance, BMW, Ferrari and Porsche all provide performance driving schools, and high-end kitchen designer Viking runs a range of cookery courses for its customers. These add a further element to a brand‘s positioning, enriching its story and increasing the consumer‘s sense of belonging as a result. 这种想要更深入了解产品是怎样生产的渴望延伸至了消费者对自身发展的渴望。这就意味着，品牌有了向个 人销售与产品相关的技术和知识的机会。例如，BMW、法拉利和保时捷都开设了性能驾驶学校，高端厨房电器品牌VIKING为它的顾客开设了一系列烹饪学校。这些都对品牌的市 场占有增添了更深层的元素，最终丰富了品牌故事并且加深了消费者的归属感。 For discerning consumers, the service offering surrounding the luxury item is as much a part of the brand experience as the product itself. This provides luxury businesses with an opportunity to improve and develop new service offerings as part of their brand promise. Friedman refers to these as, ―the trimmings,‖ saying, ―[Luxury brands] are all working so much harder to attract their customers from creating clubs or putting on special events, or creating concierge services.‖ Dunhill has responded to this trend by opening Alfred‘s, a members‘ club in the former home of the Duke of Westminster, where patrons can browse, shop, have supper in a private dining room, sample the wine cellars and even stay overnight. 对有辨识力的消费者来说，围绕奢侈品所提供 的服务就如同奢侈品本身一样是品牌体验的一部分。这就为奢侈品企业提供了一个改善发展 作为品牌承诺一部分的提供新服务的机会。金融时报的时尚版编辑Vanessa Friedman把这些 称为“整修”，她说，“[奢侈品品牌]现在都更加致力于建俱乐部、举办特别活动或者专人服 务来吸引消费者。”登喜路对这个潮流的回应就是在威斯敏斯特公爵原来的住址处开了一家 会员俱乐部，在那里，顾客可以随意观看购买商品，在私人房间吃晚饭，品尝典藏葡萄酒甚 至过夜。 The luxury store environment is also an arena where these changes are being played out. In the words of designer Tom Ford, the luxury retail store was once about ostentation: ―You walked in, everyone saw you, you saw them...it was a scene‖ 21. Now the luxury environment has changed to become more individualised, intimate and private. This new concept aims to make the consumer more comfortable. In Ford‘s case, stores are often furnished with items from his own 20 www.vertu.com 21 Tom Ford: quoted in Time Magazine, October 6, 2008 home, providing another dimension to the brand experience. 奢侈品商店环境也是以上这些变化得以淋漓尽致的表现的舞台。在设计师Tom Ford口中，奢侈品零售店曾经就是卖弄；“你 走进商店，所有人都看见你了，你也看见他们了„„那就是一出风景。”现在奢侈品商店的 环境变的越来越有个性、亲密和更隐私。这种新概念旨在让消费者更舒服。以Tom Ford为 例，他的商店经常是配置了他自己家的家具的，为品牌体验提供了另一个角度。 Service at point of sale continues to be an absolutely critical part of the luxury experience, particularly for the Chinese market, says Harilela. Here, sales associates are increasingly required to be as much brand connoisseurs as product specialists. This presents a challenge for international brands. As Morrison notes, ―The question is, how can you reach the person who is in direct contact with the customers?‖ Ferragamo, for example, writes a training manual for every collection, which covers everything from the origin of the leather, to why one leather is used for a particular product over another. 销售时的服务一直是奢侈品体验的一个绝对至关重要的部 分，特别是中国市场。在这里，销售顾问日益被要求成为不仅是产品专家还要是品牌鉴赏行 家。这对国际品牌来说是个挑战。菲拉格慕女士皮草部的Simonetta Morrison提到，“问题就是，你要怎样去影响那个跟顾客有直接接触的人？”例如菲拉格慕，就为每一个系列写了个 培训手册，手册里包括了从用的皮子的来源到为什么一种特定的商品是用这种皮子而不是用 另一种皮子。 In difficult economic times, our panel believes it will become more important for businesses to create deeper brand experiences for customers. This is likely to create and maintain loyalty by, as MacDonald-Keir says, ―building up a reputation of trust with the consumer, having a dialogue with them and reminding them about the brand values‖. 在困难的经济时期，专家组相信为消费 者创造更深入的品牌体验对企业来说会越来越重要。这可能如奢侈品简报的编辑Catherine MacDonald-Keir所说的，通过“与消费者之间建立可信赖的美誉度、与他们对话，提醒他 们品牌价值”来创造和维持忠诚度。 Adopting responsible behaviour increases brand value Our panel highlights that because luxury products and services are discretionary purchases symbolic of deep emotions, consumers require them to be exceptional in every sense of the word. Stephen Lussier, Executive Director, De Beers Group, believes, “This is not so much about building reputation as it is about making sure your brands deliver what they stand for, be it expertise, design or creativity. It‘s just good business sense to ensure your operations live up to the promises your brand makes.‖ 专家组强调，因为奢侈品产品和服务是象征深层情感的可自由 决定的购买，消费者要求它们在各种意义上都是特别的。戴比尔斯集团执行董事Stephen Lussier相信，“这跟确定你的品牌传递的是他们应该代表的信息相比，建立美誉度也没什么 太大关系，就不用说专业技能、设计或者创造了。这就是凭借良好的商业感觉来确保你的运 营不愧对你的品牌所做的承诺。” Today, brand reputation is not only built through PR and marketing, but is also dependent on the quality of the product and the company behind it. A brand is the sum of all the perceptions held by a particular audience about a firm‘s products or services 22. As Rae emphasises, ―Something that is beautifully made, finely crafted, made out of rare materials and well designed, will account for nothing if it is also equated in the public mind with human rights and environmental destruction.‖ 今天，品牌美誉度不仅仅是通过公关和营销来建立的，而且还要依靠于产品质量和背后的公 司。一个品牌是所有特定人群对这个公司的产品或者服务持有的观念的总和。正如责任珠宝 22 British Brands Group, 2008 实务委员会首席执行官Michael Rae强调的，“有时候，某件经过好好设计的、由稀有材质制作的、精美的、精巧的物品，如果在大众心目中是与人权和破坏环境等同的，那就什么也 不是。” Adopting responsible ways of working is viewed more and more as smart business practice. ―While you can‘t prove the positive effects, you can certainly prove the negative impacts to business [of not acting responsibly]‖, asserts Friedman. The reputational effect of being exposed as a company with a ?bad record‘ is clear. 采用负责任的工作方法越来越被认为是聪明的经营方法。“当你不能证明积极影响时，你当然可以证明不负责任对经营的消极作用。”金融时报 的时尚版编辑Vanessa Friedman断言。我们很清楚一个公司如因“不良记录”而被曝光对公司美誉度的影响。 There is also a wider business imperative at play. Friedman argues, ―Treating workers properly makes better [quality] shoes.‖ It can also help attract a high calibre of people to the industry. As Rae puts it, ―People, particularly ?Generation X and Y‘, are becoming increasingly discerning about the companies for which they work. A company that has an appalling reputation ?nds it much harder to attract the best and brightest talent.‖ 还有一个更广的商业需要。 Friedman主张，“正确对待工人可以制造更好的鞋子。”这还有助于吸引有才干的人进入这 一行。责任珠宝实务委员会首席执行官Michael Rae说，“人们，特别是X世代和Y世代的 人，变得对他们工作的公司越来越有辨识力。一个有着糟糕的名声的公司就会发现吸引到最 好最有才华的人才比较困难。” ―I think there is a temptation to say that if you are trading in developing countries you should meet the expectations of the consumer in those countries and if they don‘t share the same values for social and environmental standards as we do in the US or in Europe, then you don‘t have to meet such high standards. But this is a feeble excuse for poor environmental and social performance, and operationally it doesn‘t work like that; for international companies it‘s much easier to have the same standards all round the world – so you might as well work to the highest‖. ASSHETON CARTER, VICE PRESIDENT, CORPORATE COMMUNITY ENGAGEMENT, PACT “我认为有种很诱惑人的说法，就是如果你在跟发展中国家的人做生意，你应该满足那些国 家消费者的期望，如果他们跟美国或者欧洲的消费者对社会、环境问题的标准不一样，那么 你就没有必要去满足那么高的标准。但其实这是对差劲的环境和社会问题工作的一个无力的 借口，在实际操作中也不是这个样子的；对国际化的大公司来讲，在全世界执行一样的标准 —所以你最好能执行最高的标准。”--Pact的副主席Assheton Carter 会更容易一些 When Stella McCartney launched her Care range of organic beauty products in 2007, she said, “I don?t see why the luxury element in a skincare line needs to be compromised in order for the organic element to be fully present.” At the time, there were several other organic skincare products on the market, however not all adhered to the same stringent principles governing what went into the product. Care is produced following strict guidelines and all sourcing, labelling, packaging, and manufacturing is checked. In McCartney?s words, “I expect to be able to trust it. I expect to know what?s in it and what it?s doing to my skin.” Source: Ledbury Research Panellists believe that luxury businesses need to take a leadership position in responding to these issues, and not rely solely on consumers and NGOs as driving forces. While there is little evidence to suggest that a signi?cant number of consumers are entering stores and asking pointed questions about a brand‘s social, ethical and environmental policy, Rae points out, ―It‘s the number of people who never cross the threshold of your store because they anticipate that you don‘t care about these issues at all who present the real challenge to luxury businesses.‖ Certainly our panel agrees that consumers are, in the words of Morgan-Grenville, ―increasingly prepared to ask those dif?cult questions‖. 专家组成员相信在回应这些问题方面时，奢侈品企业应该占据 领导位置，而不是仅仅将消费者和无政府组织当作驱动力来依赖。尽管还没有证据表明有相 当一部分消费者走进商店，问一些诸如这个品牌的社会、道德和环境政策的尖锐问题，然而 责任珠宝实务委员会首席执行官Michael Rae指出，“正是那些因为预料到你对这些问题毫 不不关心而从来不跨进你的店门的那部分消费者才对奢侈品企业提出了真正的挑战。”当然， 专家组承认，消费者，用豪华旅游公司爱帕克罗比亚与肯特的首席营销官George Morgan-Grenville的话来讲，“愈加准备好问那些难题了。” Being proactive is also vital. This is why, Chadha emphasises, ―it is about pre-emptively and pro-actively being careful about all these things [the way your business operates] so that nothing is left open to chance‖. 积极也十分关键。这就是为什么立足于香港的品牌战略家Radha Chadha强调，“为使不留任何机会给偶然，要预防地积极地谨慎的对待所有事[你的企业运营的方式]。” The need to be proactive also applies to smaller luxury brands and retailers. According to Kowalski, ―The battle is that the smaller players need to recognise how important these issues are and not presume that they should be left to the ?big guys‘ to resolve.‖ Our panel agrees that, because independents and smaller retailers often trade on their reputation, upholding high standards is crucial to maintaining close customer relationships and positive word-of-mouth about their business. Curiel also makes the point that smaller players particularly need to make sustained efforts to maintain trust because ―younger generations will not have the same loyalty to them as their parents‖. 对积极的要求同样应用于较小的奢侈品品牌和零售商。根据TIFFANY & CO的首席执行官MICHAEL KOWALSKI的观点，“这种竞争就是较小的竞争者需要认识到这些 问题有多么重要，并且不要假定应该由‘大腕儿’来解决这些问题。”专家组同意这个观点， 因为独立零售商和较小的零售商需要经常利用他们的美誉度，所以坚持高标准就对维持亲密 的客户关系至关重要，对企业的口碑也有积极作用。佳士得拍卖行的欧洲主席François Curiel也指出较小的竞争者特别需要持续努力的维持人们的信任感，因为“较年轻的一代人不会像 他们的父母一样对品牌有同样的忠诚度。” What needs to be done, according to our panel, is for luxury players to be responsible through effective management of the environmental, social and ethical aspects of the supply chain. According to Kowalski, this is a particular challenge for global companies with ―fragmented supply chains‖. Carter echoes this view, ―When you have global, complex supply chains it is difficult to always know what is going on in all the factories around the world; where your products or parts of your products are produced.‖ The onus will be on the larger players to consolidate and manage their supply chains. Smaller businesses will need to ask their manufacturers and wholesalers tougher questions. 据专家组意见，奢侈品经营者需要做的事情 是在对环境、社会和道德方面有效管理供应链的过程中要负责任。Kowalski的观点是，对有着“断裂的供应链”的跨国企业来说特别具有挑战性。Pact的副主席Assheton Carter也赞 同这个观点，说“当你拥有全球的、综合的供应链的时候，总是很清楚在所有工厂发生的事 情是很困难的。”巩固和管理供应链对较大的品牌来说是个负担。较小的企业将需要向他们 的制造商和批发商问出更棘手的问题。 ―We want to be playing in a level market, where everybody is doing business decently. Then “我们想要在公平竞争的环境做生意，we want people to buy our creations because they like them better.‖ PAMELA CAILLENS, 这个环境肿的人们都很正派的在做生意。然后我们想要人们因为更喜欢我们的产品而购买它CORPORATE RESPONSIBILITY DIRECTOR, CARTIER --卡迪亚的企业责任总监Pamela Caillens 们。” ―Transparency is vital. Brands have a fundamental responsibility to consumers to provide accurate information so they can be comfortable with their purchases.‖ STEPHEN LUSSIER, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, DE BEERS GROUP “透明度至关重要。品牌对消费者有一个最基 --STEPHEN LUSSIER本的责任，就是提供正确信息，以便让消费者对他们的购买感到舒服。” 戴比尔斯集团执行董事 De Beers Group introduced its Best Practice Principles (BPPs) in 2000 to underline how, in Group Managing Director Gareth Penny‘s words, ―Corporate responsibility for business, social and environmental matters is part of day-to-day business in De Beers Group.‖ The Best Practice Principles are the highest business, social and environmental standards in the diamond industry, designed to ensure that De Beers Group and everyone in the diamond supply chain working with the Group upholds industry best practice. Source: De Beers Group Our panel agrees that luxury businesses, large and small, need to adhere to the highest standards of responsible behaviour. According to Ng, ―While it is not possible to cite a single standard that any company can follow, core principles exist in initiatives such as the UN Global Compact and ILO Conventions. Although these are not certi?able standards they provide a framework to build a company‘s programme.‖ For a programme to be successful, Ng argues, ―Processes must be embedded in the way a company behaves at all levels rather than a project that simply sits along the side.‖ 专家组认同奢侈品企业，不论大小，都需要坚持负责任的行为的 最高标准。根据Ng的说法，“虽然引用一个任何公司都能遵守的标准不那么可能，基本原 则还是存在于例如联合国契约和国际劳工组织协定一类的倡议中的。尽管这些不是可确认的 标准，他们还是为构建一个公司的计划提供了框架。”要让计划成功，SGS 的Ng说，“步 骤必须深植入这个公司在各个标准的运转的方式中，而不是在一个仅仅呆立一旁的一个项目 中。” To implement these high standards, it is critical for luxury companies to take a long-term approach and work closely with all stakeholders from employees and suppliers to consumers, shareholders and local communities, says our panel. This can be most effectively achieved through a consultation process during which all stakeholders can agree standards for what is a ?credible and honest‘ attempt at implementing responsible business practice. Inherently, working with NGOs and industry bodies provides reassurances for consumers that, in Kasriel‘s words, ―everything is as it should be.‖ Says Ng, ―Successful partnerships with NGOs can be forged where mutual objectives can be agreed and a formal long-term working relationship can be established. Trade associations and industry-wide working groups can be useful too for engaging with NGOs where companies have concerns about the level of commitment required.‖ 专家组认为，为了执行这些高标准，奢侈品公司采取长远的方式和与从雇员、供应商到消费者、股东和当地团体 等的所有的利益相关者紧密联系在一起是很关键的。通过一次咨询的过程可以最有效的实 现，在这个过程中所有的股东可以同意在执行负责任的经营方法‘可靠与诚实的’尝试的标 准。固然，与非政府组织和行业组织合作可以给消费者信心，用未来派艺术家Kasriel的话 来讲，就是“所有事情都是它应该是的样子。”Ng说，“与非政府组织成功的合作可以前进 至达成共同的目标和建立正式合作关系。行业协会和全行业的职业团体对参与非政府组织也 非常有用，公司关心的是要求承担的义务的标准。” ―Processes must be embedded in the way a company behaves at all levels rather than a project that simply sits along the side.‖ FRANKIE NG, EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT 的Ng说，“步骤必须深植入这个公司在各个标准的运 CONSUMER SERVICES, SGS SGS 转的方式中，而不是在一个仅仅呆立一旁的一个项目中。” Going forward, our panel believes that the future will inevitably see the development of initiatives similar to the Forest Stewardship Council and Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices around different product categories. These developments will have ―a snowball effect in cleaning up the whole [luxury] industry‖, says Macdonald-Keir. Ultimately, the panel hopes this will lead to a level playing ?eld across the luxury industry. Ng emphasises, ―Social responsibility can and should be taken out of the competitive arena.‖ 专家组相信将来不可避免的会看到围绕不同产品的类似林业服务委员会和责任珠宝实务委员会的倡议的发展。奢侈品简报的编辑 Catherine MacDonald-Keir说，这些发展将会“对清理整个[奢侈品]行业产生雪球效应”。最终，专家组希望这会形成奢侈品行业的公平竞争环境。Ng强调，“社会责任可以而且应该在竞技舞台上去掉。” But how should brands communicate their responsible credentials? Our panellists are divided on the best way to do this, whether it is about being vocal and proactively telling the story or subtly implementing the changes. They did, however, agree on the importance of transparency in communicating accountability and traceability in the supply chain. The standards of transparency are only going to step up a notch in the future, believes Carter: ―We‘ve had certi?cation and labelling. The next wave will be the use of technology and the internet for the consumer to track and trace the products.‖ In Asia, for example, ―certi?cation and guarantees need to be provided by a neutral, respectable third party that comes with impeccable credentials,‖ says Chadha. 但是，品 牌应该怎样传递他们的责任凭据呢？专家组成员在最佳解决上有分歧，是主动说出来还 是巧妙的执行呢？然而，他们对供应链的可说明性和可追踪性的透明度的重要性达成了一 致。Pact的副主席Assheton Carter相信，透明度的标准在将来只会越来越高，“我们已经有 了证书和标签。下一波将会是技术的运用和消费者追踪与跟踪产品的网络。”例如在亚洲， “证书和担保书需要与无懈可击的凭据一起被一个中立的有名望的第三方机构出具。” From a broader marketing perspective, humility is key. Communicating in a transparent and honest way can help to build consumer trust and safeguard the authenticity of the brand promise. In addition, research and consultancy group, Corporate Citizenship, stresses that to achieve this, any marketing claims must be fully substantiated, address consumer concerns at the heart of the brand or product and re?ect a committed, ongoing approach to sustainable practice (for further information see adjacent panel). 用更广泛的营销观点看来，谦虚是关键。以一种透明的诚实 的方式交流可以有助于建立消费者信任和保护品牌承诺的真实性。另外，企业公民（一个研 究顾问团体），强调为了达到这个目标，任何营销声明都必须得到充分实施，向消费者说明 他们所关心的品牌或者产品核心，并且思考出坚定的、发展的能够保持一定水准的行为的方 法。 As we have seen, the rise of a more discerning consumer has many implications for luxury players, from new opportunities to enhance the brand story to embedding standards which uphold the promise of excellence. This is changing the face of luxury and the way players will operate in the future. 就像我们已经看到的，有辨识力的消费者的增加对奢侈品经营者有很多暗示，从 增强品牌故事的新机会，到植入保持追求卓越性的品牌承诺的标准。这正在改变着奢侈品的 面貌和经营者将来经营的方式。 Communicating responsible business practices effectively 1. Consumers are increasingly sceptical of ?green wash‘. Don‘t over-claim. Substantiate any claims you do have with evidence. 消费者日益倾向于怀疑‘漂绿’。不要过分主张。要言之有 据。 2. Make sure you have your house in order before making any ethical claims about your product /service/brand. 在作出任何有关你的产品/服务/品牌的道德方面的声明之前，保证你的店铺整齐。 3. Engage with stakeholders that will support or strengthen your credibility. Don‘t be afraid of constructive criticism from them. It will probably help you in the long run. 与股东的互动会维持或增强你的可信度。不要害怕他们有建设性的批评。以后这可能会帮到你。 4. Encourage the principle of longevity so that consumers choose products that last rather than those that feed the need for ?fast fashion‘. 鼓励长的使用寿命的原则，这样会使消费者选 择可以持久的商品而不是满足‘速食时尚’需求的产品。 5. Stay informed and ahead of issues that could impact your business, so you can address and communicate con?dently on them. Take a lead and work to establish standards (if they do not already exist) with your peers and competitors to promote yourself as a thought leader. 对可能影 响到企业的问题保持先知先觉，这样你就可以自信的说明并沟通这些问题。领导你的同级别 的竞争对手建立行业标准（如果他们不是已经存在了），来将你自己提升为思想的领导者。 6. Those who want to make responsibility a central brand proposition will need to establish and communicate the ?whole lifecycle‘ impacts of their products – from design through to disposal. Work to reduce the negative ones and enhance the positive. 那些想要使责任心成为中心的品牌主张的人需要建立并传递他们产品的‘整个生命周期’的影响—从设计到丢弃。努力减少消极影响，增加积极影响。 Source: Corporate Citizenship 来源：企业公民 4. Conclusion There is a marked shift in the buying patterns of luxury consumers The dramatic rise in the numbers and fortunes of the wealthy in the past decade has led them to become more acclimatised to luxury and increasingly sophisticated in their buying behaviour. From the days when luxury was purchased only to display status and prestige, our panel has seen the emergence of new, more complex and sophisticated motivations. This will intensify as the global economy falters. As luxury consumers put brand promises under greater scrutiny, they will spend on those that represent genuine value and are truly special and worthy of their high price point. 在过去十年，有钱人的数量和财富的戏剧性的增加使他们越来越习惯奢侈品，并且购 买行为越来越精明世故。从人们购买奢侈品只是为了显示身份与名望的日子，专家组就已经 看出来新的更复杂和精明世故的动机的出现了。这会随着全球经济衰落而加强。因为奢侈品 消费者审视品牌承诺越来越严格，他们会购买那些具有真正价值并且真的特别的值得高价的 东西。 Luxury consumers are becoming more discerning in their purchases According to our panel, the growing shift from conspicuous to discerning consumption encompasses elements such as; the promise of high quality, the rarity and exclusivity of the object, the discovery of something new and exciting, the understanding of the story behind the product and heightened awareness of the impact the product has on society and the environment. Buying luxury has evolved from being simply about indulgence and ?what you wear‘ to a more innate, value-driven expression of the individual. 根据专家组的说法，从炫耀性消费到精明消费的改变包括：高质量的承诺，物品的稀有性和独有性，新的令人激动的事物的发现，对产品背后 的故事的了解，对产品对社会及环境影响的意识的提高。购买奢侈品已经从仅仅是关于嗜好 和‘你穿戴的是什么’发展到天生的、受到价值驱使的个人表达了。 This is also relevant in emerging markets, like India and China Luxury buyers in developing markets are increasingly in?uenced by the consumer habits of the Western world, in that they too are becoming far more complex in their purchasing decisions. According to evidence from our panel, this transformation is taking place more rapidly than previously believed and is being driven by younger consumers in their 20s and 30s in emerging markets who are playing catch-up with the attitudes of their Western counterparts. 发展中国家的 奢侈品消费者愈加受到西方世界消费者习惯的影响了，在做购买决定时他们也变得更加复 杂。根据专家组提出的证据，这种转变发生的速度比以前认为的要快得多，而且是受到新兴 市场的那些奋力追赶西方世界的参照人群的20到30岁的较年轻的消费者的驱动的。 Brand value comes under closer scrutiny as luxury moves into harder economic times As consumers move to fewer, better things and demand more from luxury, ?brand value‘ will come under greater scrutiny. For discerning consumers, this value perception will be increasingly affected by factors beyond the traditional aspects of the product such as retailing and branding to include assurances of authenticity and product traceability. The luxury promise of excellence will be expected to include exemplary sourcing and supply chain practices and these elements will become as central to brand strategy as exciting in-store environments, service, luxury personalisation and transparent and impactful communications. 随着消费者越来越倾向较稀少 较好的事物，并且对奢侈品要求越来越多时，‘品牌价值’就会受到更密切的审视。对有辨 识力的消费者来说，这种价值观念会日益受到超出例如零售和印商标等的传统方面的因素的 影响，会包含产品可追踪性和真实性的保证。人们将会期待奢侈品追求卓越的承诺包括可做 典范的原料来源和供应链行为，并且这些因素将会与令人兴奋的店内环境、服务、奢侈品的 个性化和透明有效的交流一样成为品牌战略的中心。 Extending the philosophy of excellence to sourcing and supply chain The panel highlights that luxury businesses need to take a leadership position in addressing sourcing and supply chain issues and not rely solely on NGOs and consumers as driving forces. A long-term approach to sustainability needs to be taken. While no single standard exists to govern the sourcing of raw materials and supply chain practices, adopting globally-recognised initiatives and involving stakeholders can help to build a framework for operations. Over time, new industry standards will emerge, taking social and environmental responsibility out of the competitive arena. 专家组强调奢侈品企业需要在说明来源和供应链问题上作出表率，不要仅仅依靠非政府组织 和消费者作为驱动力。要达到稳定，就要采用长期的办法。既然没有单独的管理原料来源和 供应链行为的标准存在，采用全球公认的倡议和与股东联手可以有助于构建运营框架。随着 时间的推移，新的行业标准会出现，将社会与环境责任自竞争舞台上去除。 Communicating responsible credentials in a transparent and honest way can help build consumer trust and safeguard the authenticity of a brand or product‘s promise. However, this must be underpinned by ongoing efforts to drive accountability and traceability across the supply chain. 用一种透明的诚实的方式来传递责任凭据可以有助于建立消费者信任和保护品牌或者产品 承诺的真实性。然而，这些必须用不断的驱动整个供应链的可说明性和可追踪性的努力来巩 固。 Changes point to a tougher competitive landscape for luxury players Brands have already started responding to calls for exclusivity and deeper experiences in varying degrees, with product innovation, creativity and higher levels of personalisation. Over time, it is likely that more global brands will follow suit. Niche players will also emerge that have the ability and ?exibility to capitalise on the evolving demands of more discerning consumers. The competitive landscape will intensify and success will lie with the brands that can drive customer loyalty by responding to the more complex demands of the new, discerning consumer. 有品牌已然开始对独有性和不同程度的更深层的体验的要求有了回应—用的是产品创新，创 造力和更高水准的个性化。随着时间的推移，可能更多的国际品牌也会照做。有能力和适应 性来利用更加有辨识力的消费者的增长的需求的缝隙品牌也会出现。竞争将会加强，成功的 会是那些通过对新的有辨识力的消费者的更复杂的要求有所回应的，可以引起消费者品牌忠 诚度的品牌。 ―Luxury has long been associated with superior quality, design and craftsmanship. But the tide is turning with a new breed of consumers who are seeking style with substance. These new consumers desire something more meaningful than just an expensive piece; they want brands to live and breathe their values through the way they do business. Our future success is entwined with our ability to ride these new waves of change.‖ STEPHEN LUSSIER, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, DE BEERS GROUP “奢侈品长久以来就是与出众的质量，设计和工艺联系在 一起的。但是随着一种追求实质风格的消费者的出现，潮流正在改变。这些新型消费者渴望 更加有意义的事物，而不仅仅是一件昂贵的产品；他们想让品牌通过其经营方式展现价值。 我们未来的成功与我们驾驭这些变化的浪潮的能力仅仅缠绕在一起。”--戴比尔斯集团执行 董事STEPHEN LUSSIER